Changing AF Points - am I missing something ?

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by marcr1230, Dec 4, 2013.

  1. marcr1230

    marcr1230 Mu-43 Regular

    149
    Nov 28, 2013
    OK - E-M1: to change from using all points to using just the center one and back, do I really have to press "OK" touch the focus point icon, then spin the front control wheel multiple times to shift from all points, to the left most center point, then make my way point by point to the center ? and then to change back, spin wheel again through half the horizontal points till it goes off the edge and then all the points are lit ? There must be a quicker way...
     
  2. TJC-MFT

    TJC-MFT Mu-43 Regular

    36
    Dec 4, 2013
    Cheboygan, Michigan
    Tom Cadwalader
    Not sure if this is will help, but this is how I I do it.
    I just use the arrow pad. Use one of the arrows to move the focus point to where I want it, then if I want all points I move the focus point off the screen and all of the points are on.
     
  3. marcr1230

    marcr1230 Mu-43 Regular

    149
    Nov 28, 2013
    That's what I meant - shouldn't there be a quick way to switch from all to some to one (like AE: Matrix, Center weighted, Spot)
     
  4. TJC-MFT

    TJC-MFT Mu-43 Regular

    36
    Dec 4, 2013
    Cheboygan, Michigan
    Tom Cadwalader
    I was referring to focus points using the arrow pad. To change metering modes I hold down the AF Metering Button ( left side above the on/off ) then rotate the front control wheel. Is that what you are looking for?
     
  5. marcr1230

    marcr1230 Mu-43 Regular

    149
    Nov 28, 2013
    I'm interested just in the focus points - is there a quick way to switch from all to one and back to all ?
     
  6. TJC-MFT

    TJC-MFT Mu-43 Regular

    36
    Dec 4, 2013
    Cheboygan, Michigan
    Tom Cadwalader
    Aren't you able to do that just by using the arrow pad ? When I turn my camera on, if I push any of the 4 arrow keys my focus grid comes up on the screen with a single focus point. If I move that point off the screen all of the points become active.
    My camera is set up for S-AF manual, if that matters. For stills I focus with the AEL/AFL button, not the shutter 1/2 way down.
     
  7. marcr1230

    marcr1230 Mu-43 Regular

    149
    Nov 28, 2013
    I think we agree - my point is why do I need to incrementally move the single point off screen, to get back to the "all points" mode , and then from "all points" if I want to go back to one point, I have to start at the left (or right) of the screen and move point by point to the center ? That's a lot of clicking for what could/shoud be done in one click
     
  8. hazwing

    hazwing Mu-43 All-Pro

    Nov 25, 2012
    Australia
    I'm at work atm, so can't check for sure... but on the EM5, you can set a 'home' position for your autofocus points. This can be an individual point, or you can also set it for the whole grid. It is then possible to assign a custom function button to home position. Not sure if this is possible with the EM1
     
  9. Clint

    Clint Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 22, 2013
    San Diego area, CA
    Clint
    Press Fn1 - Info, and then use the back dial to change from one to all and back to one. Play arund with a littl ebit and you'l be able just to go from 1 to all or back to one without going through small focus points or a group of 9.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  10. keith1200rs

    keith1200rs Mu-43 Regular

    76
    Nov 8, 2011
    North Yorkshire
    I am not sure if is the same (I have EPL5) but as far as I remember I press the left arrow for focus points then press INFO before turning the wheel.

    Keith
     
  11. photo_owl

    photo_owl Mu-43 Regular

    164
    Nov 8, 2013
    as Clint says, assuming default buttons and settings, press Fn 1 button then INFO button - rear dial will now cycle the AF area options.

    another set up option is to set the AF area home to one option, say centre 9 points, Now programme a button to (...)HP. When you start and decide that you might want single point (s) as a common option that day, switch to that as above. Now you can directly cycle between 9 points and single (s) by pressing the button you have programmed to (...)HP.

    hope this helps
     
  12. marcr1230

    marcr1230 Mu-43 Regular

    149
    Nov 28, 2013
    It's simple - press F1 you see the AF points layout, and highlighted in green, those that are active (use left/right/up/down to change the placement of the focus square) . Press F1 then Info, and you can adjust the focus square size (using the up/down controls) there are 4 patterns (all, medium, normal, small) , also adjusts the face detection mode using the left/right controls.

    easy peasy

    Thanks



     
  13. Dave in Wales

    Dave in Wales Mu-43 All-Pro

    Nov 5, 2011
    West Wales
    Tis the same for the E-M1, you just beat me to it.
     
  14. Wisertime

    Wisertime Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 6, 2013
    Philly
    Steve
    Just curious. I keep things simple and use one focus point and recompose. When do people use ALL focus points? Moving objects/sports?
     
    • Like Like x 1
  15. mjw

    mjw Mu-43 Veteran

    220
    Sep 23, 2013
    Seattle, WA
    Matt
    Focus and recompose breaks if you're shooting narrow depth of field up close. The change in distance can be enough to push your subject out of focus.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  16. Dave in Wales

    Dave in Wales Mu-43 All-Pro

    Nov 5, 2011
    West Wales
    Well, I've learnt something, I never knew that.

    I do macro, narrow DOF, I'll use all focus poins in future.

    Thanks.
     
  17. mfj197

    mfj197 Mu-43 Regular

    80
    Aug 20, 2012
    Guildford, UK
    Michael
    The only issue with that is you don't know what subject it will focus on - the insect, the bit of leaf in front or whatever. I tend to use single point in these situations, but have the point positioned whereabouts in the frame the subject is required with the final framing, i.e. not in the middle.

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
     
  18. Wisertime

    Wisertime Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 6, 2013
    Philly
    Steve
    Right. That's why I do it with one.
     
  19. photo_owl

    photo_owl Mu-43 Regular

    164
    Nov 8, 2013
    assuming you are on a tripod, use livetime, magnification and the touchscreen to focus and shoot - so much easier :)
     
  20. JamieW

    JamieW Mu-43 Veteran

    260
    Oct 25, 2013
    What mjw is describing is called parallax. Say you find the nodal point (no-parallax point) on the lens and drag a measuring tape out from that point to your subject, and it measures exactly 24". If you focus-lock on that point, then pivot the camera on the nodal point to aim it at a new subject the camera will still be focused at 24". If the new subject is not exactly 24" away it may be out of focus depending on your aperture. If you're doing this hand-held it gets even harder to ensure focus. The effect is more noticeable with subjects that are closer, and when using shallow DOF.

    (There's been some debate over the terminology and it seems to be changing in recent years, but hopefully I wasn't too confusing). A bit off topic, but here's a video explaining how to find the nodal point if you're curious and showing you some of the other effects of parallax. https://www.youtube.com/watch?annot...&feature=iv&src_vid=k0HaRZi-FWs&v=1jAhwFLimM0 This is useful for doing panoramic landscapes.

    I agree with mfj here. mjw explains why you'd want to pre-select your focus point so you wouldn't have to recompose the shot, but it doesn't explain a good reason to use All Focus Points vs just assigning a single focus point on your subject where you want it. I've tried all focus points in the past and you don't always get the subject you want in focus when you let the camera pick the focus point for you. Photo_owl's suggestion of using the touch screen with magnify is also good for macro work.

    On DSLR it's less of an option, since most of the focus points are in the center of the screen, and the center point is usually the best point. On mirrorless systems you get the added benefit of being able to focus almost anywhere in the scene which is so much nicer for both macro and shallow DOF portrait work.

    Edit: Oops. I botched the multi-quote and got the names wrong. Hopefully less confusing now. :)