1. Welcome to Mu-43.com—a friendly Micro 4/3 camera & photography discussion forum!

    If you are thinking of buying a camera or need help with your photos, you will find our forum members full of advice! Click here to join for free!

Can't decided about replacing GX7 with E-M10 or E-M5

Discussion in 'This or That? (MFT only)' started by jonbrisbincreative, Nov 11, 2014.

  1. jonbrisbincreative

    jonbrisbincreative Mu-43 Regular

    Mar 30, 2014
    I bought my GX7 as my first foray into m4/3. I enjoyed using it but found the relatively low frame rate (I use multi-shot a LOT) and viewfinder less than ideal. The VF is okay but it's slow to respond when bringing it up to my eye and while it's got great ergonomics and I much prefer the Panasonic menus to the Olympus menus, I'm debating selling the GX7 to make way for a backup or secondary body to my E-M1. I'm considering either a used E-M10 or E-M5.

    I do shoot professionally but not full-time. I use my E-M1 for sports, portraits, and events. I've used the GX7 with good results in studio settings but I'm just not entirely sold on the Panasonic sensor look or the UX of the camera in general. The "natural" choice for a second body would at first glance seem to be the E-M10. But the weather sealing of the E-M5 might be desirable as well.

    What are your suggestions regarding a backup or secondary body to an E-M1? Does the E-M10 work better because it matches the E-M1's frame rate in continuous shooting and stabilization (I know there's a difference here but it's much closer to the E-M1 than the E-M5 or even GX7 AFAIK)? I mostly use primes but if I used a zoom it would be on the E-M1. I like to have two different focal lengths at the ready in my ThinkTank Retrospective. I plan on somewhat expanding my legacy MF lens collection as well (probably Canon FD like my wonderful 50/3.5 macro) so the focus peaking is probably also a huge advantage of the E-M10.

    I'm selling off everything I can to make way for the Oly 40-150 and this second body. Then I will be fully m4/3 and MF film (Mamiya RB67).
  2. Replytoken

    Replytoken Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 7, 2012
    Puget Sound
    Is battery compatibility important to you? The E-M1 shares the same battery with the E-M5, but not the E-M10. This would be a concern for me as I travel often and this allows me to cut down on chargers and batteries. Small issue, but one that can impact folks. Also, do you want the E-M5 two-piece grip?

    Good luck,

  3. mattia

    mattia Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 3, 2012
    The Netherlands
    The E-M10 is probably the 'better' camera in quite a few ways, although I did love my E-M5 quite a lot. Major point against the E-M10 as a backup is the fact it uses a different battery, while the E-M5 and E-M1 both use the same one.

    Query: why not just get a second E-M1?
  4. Jonathan F/2

    Jonathan F/2 Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Aug 10, 2011
    Los Angeles, USA
    I have the E-M10 and love it. Best street camera in my opinion due to size, price and performance. Saying that, since you already own an E-M1, I'd consider the E-P5 over the E-M5. Same battery, RF style form factor for when you want something smaller and access to the same EVF in the VF-4 as your E-M1. Plus the new firmware gives you the 0s delay in the shutter virtually eliminating shutter shock.
  5. DigitalD

    DigitalD Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jan 10, 2014
    Depends what you want in a second camera. You didn't really spell out why. I have been thinking about this too but one main reason was to have something even smaller then the em1 but with great quality so that when I share my nice primes I can still get wonderful results. I thought long and hard about the ep5. A real winner with OOC JPEGS. The only reason I haven't pulled the trigger is I'm not sure how I feel about losing the viewfinder. However for you that's probably more important because you want to use Manual lenses. I would be putting my smallest AF primes on it like the m.zuiko's I own.

    As far as the em5 and em10 goes. Personally I think the em5 is the way to go simply because you can grab a used one for so cheep and it's still a hell of a camera. My father in law picked up the em10 and I felt it a little cheep feeling for the price. The focus peeking is also not as sensitive as the em1 to be warned. But if price is not an issue then the em10 edges out in Photo quality slightly because of the newer sensor design though it loses the weather sealing.
  6. mazg

    mazg Mu-43 Regular

    Aug 20, 2013
    I'm pretty sure I just read the EM5 is no longer available from Oly due to a replacement model EM6 coming out in January. Retailers are being told no more stock on the EM5. You might be able to pick one up on sale or wait for the new EM6. I'm really interested to see what the EM6 will bring.
  7. Bif

    Bif Mu-43 Top Veteran

    May 28, 2012
    San Angelo TX
    Bruce Foreman
    I would be afraid that if you sell the GX7 you would regret it at some point in the future. It is such an all around flexible "inconspicuous" camera that doesn't call a lot of attention to itself. I have one along with 2 GH3's, a GH4, and an Oly OMD E-M5 I picked up "lightly used" (270 shutter "clicks" on it). When I don't have preconcieved ideas on what I'll be shooting, the GX7 is what I reach for first.

    My advice: Watch the "buy/sell" forum on this site for a used E-M5 with low shutter count, I see some frequently, and try that route for awhile.
    • Like Like x 1
  8. mark111

    mark111 Mu-43 Rookie

    Oct 7, 2014
    I bought a GX7 in March but sold it after 2 months despite liking the looks, performance and aesthetics. However I wanted to get a cheaper m43 body and get a 25mm 1.4 with the difference; at this time in the UK the GX7 was still very expensive. I eventually replaced it with a E-PL5 and 25 1.4 which were selling cheap.

    Between June and October I have used Olympus E-PL5, EM-1, and borrowed a EM10 for the weekend. Of all these cameras I think the GX7 was the best and that includes the EM1 mainly because the EM1 looks hideous and costs 2x as much as the GX7.

    I can't really think of any specific advantages the EM10 has over the GX7, for my money the GX7 had a better EVF and touchscreen, a much better grip, a better UI and if you are concerned with video then it's in a different league altogether.

    If you already have an EM1 then I think you should keep your GX7 rather than get an EM10. In the run up to Christmas there have been lots of cashback, price drops on the GX7, so your going to be selling into a market with low prices, I doubt you will recoup enough to replace it with a new EM10.

    e.g. here in the UK last week a newish GX7 sold on ebay for £330 less ebay fees. An EM10 costs around £500, so you're going to have to stump up the difference and IMHO you'll be getting an inferior camera.
  9. Listener

    Listener Mu-43 Regular

    there may be new models from olympus and panasonic in a few months. be smart and wait.
  10. jonbrisbincreative

    jonbrisbincreative Mu-43 Regular

    Mar 30, 2014
    I rented a Fuji X-T1 a while back and while I think my E-M1 is better suited to many of the things I shoot, I'm starting to think that the X-T1 might actually be a better option as a second body.

    Why the X-T1? It has a stunning viewfinder and despite the claims to the contrary, the DOF difference between APS-C and MFT is noticeable in my tests, especially with the great XF primes. I need a second body for my event and portrait work so that I'm not relying on a single body and it gives me more flexibility as far as events and portraits are concerned. The low light performance of my E-M1 is acceptable but even at base ISO the MFT sensor produces more noise than the X-Trans.

    It's starting to seem more and more that having the X series to complement my MFT is the best option for me. I'm replacing my Canon with the E-M1 but for portrait and other sheer IQ work, I really think the X-T1 fits my style better than another MFT sensor.
  11. Turbofrog

    Turbofrog Mu-43 Legend

    Mar 21, 2014
    I would agree that the DOF difference is noticeable between M4/3 and APS-C. Overall image quality though, is a much less noticeable improvement to my eyes. At this point, unless there is a wonder-body that comes out with the features that make M4/3 great, I've sort of ruled out APS-C as any kind of an upgrade. The Samsung NX1 looks like it has some secret sauce to it, but it's also bulky, heavy, and expensive...

    Fujis are nice if you mostly shoot JPEGs and don't pixel peep. It's a habit I should get out of, but to my eyes the X-Trans sensors just can't hold up at 100%. Cleaner than M4/3, but noticeably softer. And since they only have 16MP, that's no advantage at all, in my opinion.
  12. jonbrisbincreative

    jonbrisbincreative Mu-43 Regular

    Mar 30, 2014
    I would agree the difference between Olympus and Fuji (just as an example) is not gigantic. The Olympus files at low ISO are acceptable to me in most cases and the kit is very, very lightweight. On the other hand, I'm finding myself looking at my Olympus files and thinking: "I know the kit is lightweight but the images just don't have something I can't put my finger on." They are very "good" files. The colors are accurate (for the most part) and the detail is acceptable with the primes I use (14, 25, and 75). But they're not "great" to my eyes. That's very subjective, I know, but the X-Trans files seem to have something different about them that makes starting with that foundation more appealing in many cases.

    There's nothing magical about the X-Trans files, I will say that. But I do think the RAF files are (many times but not ALL times) a better foundation than my ORF files. The ORF files may have more technical merits but they often lack character.

    I've found that Iridient Developer does a superior job over Lightroom at interpreting RAW files. I'm very underwhelmed by Lightroom's rendering of both ORFs and RAFs. And I do think I'll start using my JPGs more. So far I've tried to save card space by only shooting RAW but since the X-T1 has bracketing for film simulation modes and in-camera RAW conversion, that should make a big difference.

    The E-M1 also does a bang-up job of processing JPGs. They don't have the same character as the Fuji JPGs but they are often better than plain Lightroom-rendered ORF files to my eyes.
  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.