canon fd aperture blades

Discussion in 'Adapted Lenses' started by kurt1968, Nov 13, 2014.

  1. kurt1968

    kurt1968 Mu-43 Regular

    Oct 30, 2012
    Hi , just got myself a 50mm f1.8.
    Problem is that aperture stays wide open when holding the lens NOT attached adapter nor extension tubes.
    However , when attached on the adapter i can move the blades.
    I noticed minimal oil traces.
    Is it the oil or does the lever need to be held back (adapter) in order to move the blades.

    So; is it possible to turn the A-ring with nothing moving?
  2. dccase

    dccase Mu-43 Regular

    Feb 25, 2014
    Massachusetts, USA
    The adapter pushes a little lever on the lens that allows the aperture to close. That's the way the lens would work when mounted on the kind of camera it was made for (AE-1, etc)

    You should be able to push the lever with your finger if you're curious.
  3. kurt1968

    kurt1968 Mu-43 Regular

    Oct 30, 2012
    i pushed the lever with my finger but nothing happened.
    will check it out again tomorrow
  4. montaggio

    montaggio Mu-43 Regular

    Yes, that's normal. Should work fine when mounted.
  5. HarryS

    HarryS Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jun 23, 2012
    Midwest, USA
    Q: Is it possible to see the blades move when an FD lens is not on a camera or adapter?

    A. Yes. Press the D-shaped button that is near the red dot on the lens collar. It often has a lens stop screw next to it. That will free up the locking ring. It also allows the lever on the opposite side, away from the red dot, to be free. If the aperture ring is on the the smallest f-stop, moving that lever will let the blades close.

    This is how you can check an lens for oily blades w/o a mounting it. Otherwise, it's normal for the aperture to not move and the two levers on the back will be locked.
  6. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    Real Name:

    Welcome to the world of FD. The 50f1.8 is a nice introduction but that lens is not their best.

    I dumped mine but still use FD for other lenses.

    This implies you are not attaching to the adapter properly. There are two types, one type has a ring that rotates the aperture engagement pin and the other needs to be attached with a little twist

    Note there are two types of FD in at video, the original mount and the New FD. I prefer the new FD.

    The oil traces won't effect anything but show the general crappy build of the FD 50f1.8 in comparison to other 50mm lenses.

    Yes, especially if you have not mounted it properly.

    From my experience its easier to mount the "on off" twist ring type with that above technique

    If you stick with FD mount ( I love their 200f4 and 300f4, and also like the 50f1.4 {which is a bit big and I prefer the OM50f1.8 over it}), I totally recommend this guys adapters, which I reviewed on my blog

  7. kurt1968

    kurt1968 Mu-43 Regular

    Oct 30, 2012
    Well , quite fiddly these FD lenses .
    I have extension rings too, but i have to move the lever first before i put it on these rings .

    One other thing : i have an FD-M4/3 adapter with an OFF/ON ring on it.
    What is this ring for ?

    I don't seem to be able to LOCK te lens on the adapter.
    When grabbing for the aperturering , and grabbing the silver ring (breechlock) , i can easy unscrew the lens from the adapter.

    My Konica lens is locked on the adapter , and i have to push a knob to get it off .

    FD = hassle hassle hassle , but the lens is very sharp :)
  8. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    Real Name:
    Its a knack, once you get it they are no big deal.


    Total pain in the behind. You must mount the lens to the extension tube first, then the adapter as described.

    If you read my post that is what I was describing. It is to engage or disengage the lens iris. My advice is set it to and leaving it on ON, then mount the lens as shown in at video.

    I have one lens which will not work with the cheapo adapter with the on off ring type no matter what. Those ciecio7 adapters are really the right stuff.

    This is old FD, they have the locking ring. Total pita. Follow that video CAREFULLY and pay attention to the red dots. Pay attyntion to the fact that your adapter does not have the other dots and so watch how the alignment dot first goes PAST the point and then engages the arm then falls into the lens and can be locked.

    If your fd50f1.8 is sharp then you got the only one made. If you test it beside an OM 50 you will be surprised :)

    I have moved over to OM for everything except those two telephoto lenses I mentioned last post.

    Try this blogpost for seeing things on the adapter fitment

    The description around this picture should clear it up
  9. kurt1968

    kurt1968 Mu-43 Regular

    Oct 30, 2012
  10. dwig

    dwig Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jun 26, 2010
    Key West FL
    Actually, there are 3 variants:

    1. FD - chrome breech-lock mount where the mounting ring is turned when mounting but the lens isn't. The "auto" position on the f/stop ring is a green circle and only has a detent to hold it in place. The chrome mounting ring also only has a click detent to hold it in the "Open" position for mounting. These were current from the introduction of the FD mount, replacing the older FL series, until the introduction of auto-exposure capable bodies. When used on non-autodiaphram accessories (e.g. manual extension tubes, lens reversing rings, ...), the iris stopdown level can be manually pushed past its normal stop-down position and a dentent will hold it in the stopdown mode.

    2. FDn - Improved on the original FD mount by putting lock button on the f/stop ring to reduce accidental shift from auto to manual f/stop and added a lock to the chrome mounting ring to prevent if from rotating away from the open/mounting position when off the camera. The f/stop ring''s auto position is now marked with a green "A". These retain the iris stopdown lever's latching function.

    3. New FD - abandons the breech-lock mounting method and uses a bayonet-style mounting method where the whole lens barrel turns during mounting. It has f/stop auto position locking and mount locking similar to the FDn series. These abandon the iris stopdown lever's latching function. They can't be locked into a stop-down postion on their own. The accessory (e.g. FD>m4/3 adapter, ....) must provice a method of holding the level in the closed position. Canon used to sell a small plastic clipping device to hold the level in the stopdown position to allow the lens to be used on reversing rings and other manual accessories.
  11. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    Real Name:

    yes, I know ... but thanks for iterating the differences. I didn't mention it here because
    1) the OP already seemed whigged out by the stuff and I wanted to focus on getting him going and
    2) there are only two variants in that video.

    but thanks for the clarity on the differences. I only use New FD (better coatings and better lenses in general). I particularly like the introduction Inner Focus to telephoto lenses like the 200mm f4 and the 300mm f4.

    The 200f4 in particular benefited from the upgrade by dropping nearly half its weight and the new optical formula being an improvement on the older version.

    the older version

    and the newer version

    I used to have both copies of the f2.8's too but sold / gave them away because I was just always using the 200f4 because it was light and 2.8 vs 4 was bugger all. The 200f2.8 weighs nearly as much as my 300f4.

    Nice to see another FD enthusiast