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Can you get good ISO 6400 from an EP-1?

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by oris642, Jun 17, 2010.

  1. oris642

    oris642 Mu-43 Regular

    • Like Like x 1
  2. Streetshooter

    Streetshooter Administrator Emeritus

    Dec 15, 2009
    Phila, Pa USA
    I think he has a good idea, usually does. for color, it probably would make a big improvement I get nervous with Noise Reduction plug ins....none really do what we want them to do....so,
    ....I get beautiful B&W even at 12800 and above...... it really depends on what you think about and see as your low light work....
    if you converted his corrected files to b&w you may even be disappointed.
    for me, it's about mood and the solace of the dark.....
    so....far be it from me to complain about grain etc.... the more the merrier....
    thanks for posting, maybe a few will read and post about it...
  3. CalebPhotographer

    CalebPhotographer Mu-43 Regular

    Apr 1, 2010
    Great method and solution.
    Thanks for sharing the article!

    This means that I'm going to need to buy a much faster memory card.. hm...
  4. mabelsound

    mabelsound Guest

    What a neat trick!
  5. Brian Mosley

    Brian Mosley Administrator Emeritus

    Dec 15, 2009
    Interesting technique... if I used photoshop, I'd give it a go.


  6. hmpws

    hmpws Mu-43 Regular

    Apr 24, 2010
    Auckland, New Zealand
    I think this is like merging a noise-reduced image (less details) with an unreduced one for the fine details, isn't it?

    I guess you should be able to do the same with a single RAW? For example, apply noise reduction in Lightroom, output and re-blend with the RAW. I may just try that myself some time..
  7. mauve

    mauve Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 9, 2010
    Paris, France
    I'm a bit dubious like that 'jimbo' who commented on TOP. It looks very much like an old trick from the past, when cameras would produce chroma noise the size of a dime, and no effective noise reduction software was on the market. The routine went like, split image into L*a*b layers, apply fuzzy filter to layers a & b, smooth a bit layer L, and then recompose image. Of course, using a jpeg as a compound of a & b layers is more straightforward and half the fuzziness is already done by the jpeg algorithm itself.

    I've got to try ctein method for myself. It might be more evolutionary than revolutionary, but any improvement is worth trying. Still, I'm reserved.
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