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Blured focus with Olympus 45mm f1.8

Discussion in 'Native Lenses' started by nirok, Aug 9, 2015.

  1. nirok

    nirok Mu-43 Regular

    88
    Apr 7, 2014
    Hey, I went on a street shooting with my Panasonic G6 and the Oly 45mm f1.8 and I noticed that almost all of my pictures have this kind of blur in them, it doesn't look like a miss focus but more like I used a to slow shutter speed. For some shot I suspected that I was moving and shooting to fast because I am on the street, but for some of the shots I remeber myself really standing and shooting without any moving, and I always used shutter speed faster than 1/100.

    Any idea of what could have caused this? maybe I am just imagining?

    take a look at the photos (if you punch in you will see what I mean)

    20235216689_df55b110ec. Red Dress by Gil Korin, on Flickr

    Happy Together by Gil Korin, on Flickr

    Caught In Action by Gil Korin, on Flickr

    20399376922_5e9517551c. S.M.S by Gil Korin, on Flickr

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    pellicle
    OK, when I look at 100% I see a mixture of problems. Red dress shot is camera shake, the two girls the focus is just behind them, visible on the pavement. When working with shallow DoF and telephoto you need to be sure of subject focus and have sufficient shutter speed / good holding technique :)
     
  3. nirok

    nirok Mu-43 Regular

    88
    Apr 7, 2014
    Thanks, I can see what you are talking about... I guess I need to concentrate more on my technique, can I ask what focus method is recommended for this kind of shooting?
     
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  4. 1/100sec may not be a fast enough shutter speed for freezing the movement of the subjects or to counteract your own movement given that you are using a 45mm lens with no stabilisation. I tend to use 1/500 as a minimum as long as it is not too dark.
     
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  5. gryphon1911

    gryphon1911 Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 13, 2014
    Central Ohio, USA
    Andrew
    Just another thing to throw into the mix. If you are using the S-AF + MF focus mode, it is really easy to bump the MF ring on the 45/1.8. I used to shoot that way, but I would bump the ring too many times, I abandoned it.
     
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  6. demiro

    demiro Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Nov 7, 2010
    I would recommend 1/500 as minimum shutter speed as well, but I don't think that is what's causing the very slight issue with your shots.

    Your flickr is very nice nirok. You clearly have a good eye for putting together shots.
     
  7. dwig

    dwig Mu-43 Top Veteran

    622
    Jun 26, 2010
    Key West FL
    Actually the missed focus images all seem to be the result of poor technique rather than mis-set controls. The subjects are moving away from the focus point indicating a delay between when the focus was locked and when the picture was actually taken.
     
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  8. tyrphoto

    tyrphoto Mu-43 All-Pro

    May 25, 2014
    Seoul | NYC
    ㅇtㅈyㅅr
    Nice photos. The problems to me seem to be technical issues rather than the lens itself.

    Like others have said, when you have normal movement, you should be at 1/250 for normal "street" style shooting. 1/500 is a bit excessive IMO and personally I wouldn't sacrifice ISO or aperture to get that speed in typical street shooting, although having a higher shutter speed in good light otherwise won't do any harm.

    Also, you have to keep in mind that since you're working with an effective focal length of 90mm, 1/90 would be the recommended minimum shutter speed with good camera holding technique. In street shooting, sometimes we can't always do that which is why I always recommend doubling (or would that be halving? :biggrin:) the minimum shutter speed or in this case 1/180 just to avoid camera shake since you don't IBIS. Obviously, this has nothing to do with subject movement and that's why I would recommend 1/250 regardless.

    In the picture with the two girls walking away, it seems you missed focus by a split second by relying on AF while the girls were walking away. From the metadata, you used f1.8 and in this case I would've stopped down to around at least f4 and preferably f5.6 or f6.3 to play it safe to account for that split second where you focus and release the shutter while the girls are walking away. Or if you really want the shallower DoF using f1.8, switch to MF and pull focus before releasing the shutter.

    In the picture with the red dress, again, you chose f1.8 which plays a part in the guy being slightly out of focus. Again, here I would've stopped the lens down a little to get both of them in focus.

    Anyways, a nice set of photos in terms of composition and colors.
     
  9. nirok

    nirok Mu-43 Regular

    88
    Apr 7, 2014
    Thank you everybody for the advice and compliments :)
    I really do prefer to shot on the street around at f4, in that day it was just after sunset and I don't feel comfortable shooting iso 3200 and above with my (beloved) G6... I awlays thought 1/100 will be fast enough for that kind of shooting but I guees I was wrong... I used to shot with legacy lenses and loved manual focus but I don't feel that comfortable doing it with focus by wire lenses, so I am having really hard time nailing focus of people walking away from me (and I really like doing it :-(
     
  10. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    Hi, I've seen 1/320" or higher frequently recommended for street shooting with moving subjects (or moving photographer).

    If I'm shooting while walking (with good light), I'll set for at least 1/320" (using S or A modes), and try to shoot mid-step (not when a foot is about to hit the ground). I also always have IBIS enabled.
    Even then, I've found composition tends to suck when moving; I'm usually much happier with my shots where I have a good background as well.

    That said, street photos don't have to be technically perfect to be good photos.

    Barry
     
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  11. gryphon1911

    gryphon1911 Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 13, 2014
    Central Ohio, USA
    Andrew
    Agreed, but I wanted to add that in just in case. I almost sent my 45/1.8 back to Olympus because I thought something was wrong with it.
     
  12. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    pellicle
    Hi

    my advice is to trust the AF ... when you're in a situation where distances can change just run with the AF and trust it. It can take time to build up a working relationship, and you may need to position the AF point where you know it'll be right (like on the person, not the building in the background) but the AF on the 45 is good ... I like it a lot.

    When using face detect its allowed me to grab some quick shots. This one was a quick raise and press before he noticed and had time to be self conscious. The face detect ensured that focus was going to be the eyes, not the shirt.

    15719382033_cd730c5415_z.
    Dom
    by , on Flickr
    GF1 and Oly 45mm, but you can go sus out the exif on the flickr site

    PS: I happen to like my OM50f1.8 and when I have time to focus (and my subject is relatively static) and I'm using my GH (with an EVF) its my go to lens. But when picking up a compact (my GF) I can't see the screen as well as I can with the EVF so I prefer the Oly45f1.8

    I like to be able to see exactly where I'm focusing so the MF mode on the GH combined with the auto magnification is really nice ... but equally its just a quick button press to get it on the legacy too. To be honest however if I have the option / time / right subject I always prefer picking my focus carefully (particularly with narrow DoF). Some thoughts on both are here:
    http://cjeastwd.blogspot.com/2014/12/portrait-lenses-native-vs-legacy.html

    have fun :D
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2015
  13. mazg

    mazg Mu-43 Regular

    96
    Aug 20, 2013
    One thing to remember is that the G6 doesn't have In body stabilization so you may need faster shutter speeds than typically used with Panasonic lenses. Try increasing the shutter to see if that solves the issue.
     
  14. Part of the reason that I prefer to use 1/500sec as a minimum is because it forces the camera to choose a larger aperture. Without a fully customizable Auto ISO setup (a la Samsung and Nikon) I find shutter priority to be the best mode to use for street photography on a Micro 4/3 camera.
     
  15. svenkarma

    svenkarma Mu-43 Top Veteran

    566
    Feb 5, 2013
    mark evans
    That's a great tip, though it is challenging my hand/foot co-ordination. Not being much of a drummer!
     
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  16. Sniksekk

    Sniksekk Mu-43 Veteran

    334
    Apr 7, 2015
    Sorry to bump this thread again, but last week I realized that the 45mm got focus by wire.

    Is S-AF + MF the only way to "activate" it? (My ring won't stop neither turning it left or right).

    I need to try this out. :)
     
  17. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    Or just MF mode.
     
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