Best way to shoot the AMGEN Tour of California

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by bhima, May 8, 2014.

  1. bhima

    bhima Mu-43 Regular

    143
    Mar 25, 2014
    Hey all,

    So I am lucky enough to be living in Sacramento where I can enjoy the first leg of this race. I want to try and get some shots of the cyclists with a bit of motion blur while tracking them so their face is at least a bit clearer. I will be using a Sigma 60mm 2.8 for this attempt which seems a bit difficult, but I've pretty much put my kit lens in the closet at this point. I'm thinking to get this type of shot I need to first manually focus where I think they will be, set the camera to high burst, but I have literally no idea what shutter speed I'll need to get this type of blur while retaining some sharpness in the face and body of the cyclists. I'm assuming this will be difficult without an ND filter since it will likely be pretty bright outside and I'm not sure I really want to push the F-stop beyond 8 or maybe 11. So does anyone know roughly what my shutter speed should be at or have any other tips they could provide? 1/100? 1/50?

    Thanks!
     
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  2. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    Hi, how fast will they be going where will you be (e.g. will it be flat, uphill, or downhill)?

    1/100 is probably way too fast to get much more than the wheels blurred; if you want the background blurred I'm guessing you'll need 1/40 or 1/25.
    It also depends how close you are to the bikes and to the background. 60mm implies you're not going to be very close to get a full shot of bike+rider.

    If it's sunny, you're going to need a ND filter; the Sunny 16 rule says 1/100 at F16 at ISO 100; to get slower shutter speeds than that, and/or wider apertures, you need an ND filter...
    Also note ISO 200 is the preferred ISO on the E-M1 and perhaps some other cameras.

    If sunny, you'd need a filter with an 4-stop reduction (ND16) to get F8 (2 stops from F16) and 1/25sec (4x (2 stops) slower than 1/100) at ISO 100; or use ND32 OR F11 for ISO 200.
    If 1/25 ends up being too slow, just open the aperture more in 'A' mode or change the shutter in 'S' mode.

    Make sure to lock the ISO, or the camera will raise it to avoid blur.

    I _think_ I've got those calculations right...
    refs:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16_rule
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-number#Standard_full-stop_f-number_scale
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neutral_density_filter#ND_filter_ratings

    If your camera has IBIS, put it in 'Horizontal Panning IBIS' mode.

    Barry
     
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  3. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
  4. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
  5. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    • Like Like x 1
  6. bhima

    bhima Mu-43 Regular

    143
    Mar 25, 2014
    Thanks for all your suggestions Barry. Looks like I will likely need an ND filter to get this... buuuut maybe not. That last link you sent is very useful. I like the tracking shots at 1/60 and 1/30. I bet that guy is going no more than 15mph maybe 16 mph. I'll be somewhat closer to the finish line on a flat which means they will likely be pushing 30+ mph. At that speed I might be able to get away with some decent looking motion tracking blur at 1/100th of a second but it will require me to track pretty damn fast haha. If I can't get a clear shot with the 60mm due to people in front of me, I'll likely grab the kit lens and move forward and give it a go. Should I try to use the C-AF? Or just not waste time and go with MF pre-focused and burst shooting?
     
  7. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    Hi, which camera do you have?

    On my e-m1, Once you start a burst, AF locks until the burst ends.

    If the bikes are coming straight at you, AF may not work well. Practice on some automobile traffic.

    The site I linked said 1/100 won't show much blur at all.
    I tend to agree as I recently shot a HS Lacrosse game, and at 1/100sec, the ball and occasionally some feet were all that were blurry.

    Barry
     
  8. moonraker

    moonraker Mu-43 Veteran

    347
    Sep 6, 2013
    Wiltshire, UK
    This may be the sort of thing that you may be trying? Here's a couple I took at 1/40 sec from the 2012 Veulta on the way up to Funte De.. it was quite a steep climb to give an indication of speed (Contador won the Veulta on this stage..)

    [​IMG][/url]P9050569.jpg by nigelpd[/IMG]

    [​IMG][/url]P9050565.jpg by nigelpd[/IMG]