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Astrophotography m4/3 - what have you got?

Discussion in 'Astrophotography' started by abeetz, Jul 11, 2012.

  1. abeetz

    abeetz Mu-43 Rookie

    17
    Jul 2, 2012
    Telford, Shrops, UK
    Andy
    So, it's my first new thread here :D We had relatively clear skies last night so I grabbed my bag and headed out into the countryside to see what I could see.

    These are my 3rd and 5th/6th attempts ever at a night sky so be gentle. Please do post your own awesome ones taken on m4/3 to provide inspiration.

    Both taken on my Oly 50mm adapted lens wide open at 1.8 ISO 100. First is a single 4 minute exposure and the second is two 4 minute exposures merged in photoshop (just ask if you want to know the process).

    'Polaris' - Just down and left of centre. I may also have knocked the camera :blush: resulting in the L-shaped stars.
    7548258504_c8690a065b.
    P1000856 by AndyBeetz, on Flickr

    'Altair' - the brightest blue trail 1/4 up in the centre according to google sky map anyway
    7548255708_4cb1c6eaed.
    P1000858 by AndyBeetz, on Flickr

    One thing that surprised me straight off was the different colours of the stars. When I look at them directly or see non-trailed pictures that finer point doesn't come across very well.

    Thanks for looking and sharing!
     
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  2. jmax

    jmax Mu-43 Regular

    63
    May 22, 2012
    Hi abeetz, great star trail pictures.
    I'm from Spain and this is my second post in this forum, where I learn every day a lot of things about m4/3 system and photography. I'm glad to share my newbie experience with astrophotography, as I posted in another thread.
    I made an equatorial "hand-motorized" mount and took some pictures of milky way. This is the mount:

    planxeta01.

    I used a Panasonic GF1 whith Lumix 20mm 1.7 lens, and remote shutter. Pictures were taken at ISO400, f2.2 and 254" exposure, getting a centered histogram. Then adjusted levels and curves with PS.

    _1130772.

    _1130391.

    Hope you like it.
     
    • Like Like x 6
  3. Chris Malikoff

    Chris Malikoff Mu-43 Regular

    104
    Aug 17, 2012
    Sydney, Australia
    A couple I've done so far. I'm yet to learn the characteristics of this camera on the back of my scope. It has a tendency to lean towards CA even though my Takahashi scope's optics don't introduce colour of their own. I think that focusing is absolutely critical - and even a Bahtinov mask needs to be used carefully.

    More to come after this weekend. :thumbup:

    65 secs ISO1600
    EtaC_1500.

    253 secs ISO200
    P8170010.

    60 secs ISO1250 12-50mm f/3.5
    omd1250.

    [​IMG]

    P8010004.

    P7270037_1_.
     
    • Like Like x 18
  4. abeetz

    abeetz Mu-43 Rookie

    17
    Jul 2, 2012
    Telford, Shrops, UK
    Andy
    Thanks for these guys, they are totally awesome.
     
  5. yktay2

    yktay2 Mu-43 Regular

    Amazing photos!!
     
  6. dannat

    dannat Mu-43 Regular

    174
    May 2, 2010
    Melbourne Australia
    chris you're showing off - the gradient/colours on the m8/20 shot looks a little off-was it under moonlight?, was the MW shot done under light pollution?

    Abeetz - in you're second shot of the star trails - if you focus closer on the foreground tree & thus de-focus the stars the trails will be thicker & colour will be accentuated
     
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  7. mowog6000

    mowog6000 Mu-43 Regular

    126
    Mar 2, 2012
    Oregon City Oregon
    Pat bailey
    Chris

    Are you stacking images or just taking one 250 second image? You can stack a lot of 1 minute exposures and stack them with a program like nebulosity. I used to take astrophotos with a 4" William Optics achro and an Orion Starshoot and the much larger sensor of you 4/3 sure makes a difference! Good work!
     
  8. F1L1P

    F1L1P Mu-43 Veteran

    388
    Jan 2, 2010
    Europe
    <object width="450" height="585"><param name="movie" value="http://backend.deviantart.com/embed/view.swf?1"><param name="flashvars" value="id=322400631&width=1337"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://backend.deviantart.com/embed/view.swf?1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="450" height="585" flashvars="id=322400631&width=1337" allowscriptaccess="always"></embed></object><br><a href="http://f1l1p.deviantart.com/art/Josipova-322400631">Josipova</a> by ~<a class="u" href="http://f1l1p.deviantart.com/">F1L1P</a> on <a href="http://www.deviantart.com">deviantART</a>

    Taken thi summer with Panasonic G1, Panasonic 20mm@1.7, RAW, 20 sec, multiple exposures, aligned and noise reduced in DeepSky Stacker
     
    • Like Like x 3
  9. Chris Malikoff

    Chris Malikoff Mu-43 Regular

    104
    Aug 17, 2012
    Sydney, Australia
    Showing off? LOL - Just providing a few snaps as requested. Yes, M8/M20 was shot under terrible conditions. I'm not concerned, it was only a quick test. I'll be able to do this properly next new moon.
     
  10. Chris Malikoff

    Chris Malikoff Mu-43 Regular

    104
    Aug 17, 2012
    Sydney, Australia
    Nope - just a single sub - didn't have time for any more that night. 1 minute sub exposures at ISO200 don't result in enough exposure. I usually want a mix of images taken at 5, 10, 20, 40, 60 seconds and then at least 4 or 5 minutes on objects such as M8. I stack and average these because otherwise you don't see the extended tendrils on the periphery and at the same time blow out the core. I use PixInsight if I stack images at all - or even the mean stacking algorithm in Photoshop's SmartObject feature which is also fantastic. Thanks for the kind words too :) I'm going to do a proper run weekend after next if the weather behaves.
     
  11. dannat

    dannat Mu-43 Regular

    174
    May 2, 2010
    Melbourne Australia
    When the nuclear winter passes here I'll try & get some lens shots from the OLY 12&45 for you- had 50km/hr winds today, I nearly got knocked if my bike
     
  12. yktay2

    yktay2 Mu-43 Regular

  13. scarbrd

    scarbrd Mu-43 Regular

    144
    Jul 1, 2011
    Houston, TX
    I shot this at Bryce canyon back in May. E-M5, Oly 9-18mm zoom.

    The biggest issue I had was focusing in the dark. I had a friend shine a light on the rocks. Could barely see to focus.

    P5192479.
     
    • Like Like x 4
  14. mowog6000

    mowog6000 Mu-43 Regular

    126
    Mar 2, 2012
    Oregon City Oregon
    Pat bailey
    Try 60 1 minute exposures and stack with Nebulosity I got good results at f8 with the small sensor on the Orion starshoot astro camera.
     
  15. Djarum

    Djarum Super Moderator

    Dec 15, 2009
    Huntsville, AL, USA
    Jason
    Way to much light polution where I live to do any basic astrophotography. I've thought about doing the barn door mount or clock drive my EQ mount, but I think the light pollution is still an issue. Those are some nice shots.
     
  16. danska

    danska Mu-43 Top Veteran

    945
    May 21, 2012
    Portland, OR
    Joe
    I'm really interested in this kind of photography. It's a hard thing to do. When I get a chance to get out to a non light polluted area again I have a much better idea how to approach it all. Here is one from my cabin area in Eastern Washington, just a single exposure.

    7875545818_7483011151_b.
    Milky Way from my hillside by danska8, on Flickr
     
  17. RobWatson

    RobWatson Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    While dark skies are preferred light pollution can be managed in many cases so might as well give it a shot. Generally speaking after flat field correction a moderatly simple gradient removal can clean up light pollution. There is a noise penalty but that is what frame stacking is for!

    Also lunar and planetary work at higher magnifications are not so perturbed by light pollution as they are by atmospheric instabilities so you can also go that route.
     
  18. jloden

    jloden Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 15, 2012
    Hunterdon County, NJ
    Jay
    Some nice shots here... I tried doing star shots the other night and had a heck of a hard time getting it focused and/or getting anything interesting other than a black sky with dots. If anyone would like to share a basic primer on astrophotography I for one would be interested.

    I'm not sure what you all mean about stacking exposures - I gather it's using an app to combine long exposure photos together, but I'm not familiar with the process and/or how it would differ from something like HDR (which I know from experience didn't work well with moon photos).


    And Chris - are those moon shots through a scope? They look great, probably better than my very best shots with the 100-300 on a tripod so far :smile:
     
  19. danska

    danska Mu-43 Top Veteran

    945
    May 21, 2012
    Portland, OR
    Joe
    You can download deep sky stacker for free which is the program F1L1P turned me onto. Basically you take identical, sequential exposures and then combine then to reduce the noise level (increase blacks) in your star-scapes.

    After making a thread on here and then researching for a while on the internet I found that the key for great star shots is having the widest angle and aperture lens that you can get (in your case the 12/2). That way you can increase your exposure time for as long as possible without getting star trails (based on rule of 600; 600/Focal Length in FF terms, will give you the longest time you can expose without seeing trails).

    Unless you can get to complete wilderness I think the stacking method seems like the only way to go. Timing the moon cycle and making sure it has been set for a while is also critical. I'm mainly interested in showing interesting foreground stuff with the Milky Way overhead so I'll be planning out some trips probably next summer to try and get some of these types of shots. I'm not sure how much of the Milky Way is really in view in the winter time.
     
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