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Any RB67 owners out there ?

Discussion in 'Other Systems' started by phigmov, Jul 11, 2010.

  1. phigmov

    phigmov Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    Apr 4, 2010
    Hi all,

    I'm trying my hand at medium format 6x7 shooting using a second-hand Mamiya RB67 with a 220 back. My EP1 doubles as my light meter :) 

    Just loaded the first roll through - seems to work fine but I've got a
    couple of quick queries -

    1. Is this the correct sequence - wind the film, remove the slide,
    cock the shutter, shoot.

    At this point a red indicator drops into view on the right of the
    film-back, I can't cock the shutter again until I move the tiny little
    slide on top of the back. Is that right ? Seems to work but wanted to make
    sure I wasn't missing something.

    2. The counter stopped at '10' on the back and I just ended up winding
    the film onto the spool figuring that was the end of it. Then I had a
    poke around online and read I should get about 20 shots on 220 film -
    what could cause the counter to stop at '10' ? Is it related to me not
    following the correct winding sequence ?

    Other than that I'm really enjoying using it - I'll get this roll
    developed and see how they turn out before loading another one.

  2. Herman

    Herman Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 7, 2010
    The Netherlands
    Goodmorning Raj. I do look forward to your images taken with the RB67. Did you photograph in color or black & white ?
  3. franklyspeaking

    franklyspeaking Mu-43 Regular

    The red indicator denotes that the current shot has been exposed. It should allow you to cock the shutter though because it should allow multiple exposures. The tiny slide above advances the film. What type of back do you have? Some backs only get you about 10 shots, 12 if you are lucky.

    Here is a link to a manual. Give it a once over and things will become more clear.
    • Like Like x 2
  4. phigmov

    phigmov Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    Apr 4, 2010
    Thanks guys - I was a little confused because I thought 220 film would get me about 20 shots when the counter stopped at 10.

    In the manual theres an example of a 120 back which does have the double-exposure switch and the counter/exposed meter are combined. The 220 back I have seems to work slightly differently.

    The camera came with some expired Kodak Portra 400 - I'll get it developed and see how much of a meal I've made of my pics :) 

    I'm just an enthusiastic amateur so I don't hold out much hope for the first roll. You definitely need a much more considered approach compared to 35mm / Digital Photography.

    It should be noted the EP1 does make a great light-meter - someone needs to invent a frankenstein flash mount / tripod adaptor to allow a camera to be mounted on another camera ;-)

  5. landshark

    landshark Mu-43 Veteran

    Apr 27, 2010
    SO CAL
    220 film is only for 220 back and 120 film is for 120 back, some back, I do remember is this was true for the RB, I have only used RZs, have a switch or readjusting of the pressure plate to accommodate different film sizes. With a 6X7 camera you will get either 10 or 20 exposures depending upon film and back used

    The red switch is to help prevent you from double exposing since with the RB the back film winding and shutter cocking are not connected like they are with the RZ
    • Like Like x 1
  6. phigmov

    phigmov Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    Apr 4, 2010
    Finally got the roll (Kodak Portra 400) developed. I'm a little bit disappointed - theres a light leak in the lower left of the pictures. Appears on almost all pictures in the same place - I'm wondering if its coming in via the back-slide ?

    Trying some Velvia 50 next and I'm on the hunt for a 120 back.

    Like the EP1 the RB67 is a real conversation starter :) 

    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
  7. landshark

    landshark Mu-43 Veteran

    Apr 27, 2010
    SO CAL
    you might have a bellows leak
  8. phigmov

    phigmov Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    Apr 4, 2010
    Bellows leak ? Sounds nasty.

    The odd thing is that even the pictures out to infinity (ie I don't need to move the bellows out) have it. I'll do some more experimenting to track down the source of the leak.

    I worked out how the back rotation works too so it'll be interesting to see if the leak follows the orientation.
  9. franklyspeaking

    franklyspeaking Mu-43 Regular

    I suggest once you track down where the light leak is coming from applying a little gaffers tape to the area. I've done this on my RB and it solved it. Make sure to use real gaffers tape though as it works the best.
  10. shinobi

    shinobi Mu-43 Regular

    Aug 11, 2010
    Make sure all the light seal foams in the camera and back are all good ...

    Otherwise, replace with new ones, like here (also shows where the foams are) :


    His store is closed, though. There is another American one, but I forgot where it is, you'll have to do some googling.
  11. phigmov

    phigmov Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    Apr 4, 2010
    Thanks for the advice.

    I put an LED light inside in the dark and opened the bellows looking for a leak but couldn't see anything obvious. Also tried shining a light from the outside in but couldn't see anything.

    My 220 back died so now have a 120 - will see how I go with it - certainly has a smoother action and film availability is much better.
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