Aftermarket grip for Em5 mkiii

Holoholo55

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I emailed Haoge this afternoon and got a response right away. Kudos to them for that. They deliberately designed it to prevent the display from opening. It's for your own good. :)

Their response is probably the most practical approach. If you're going to use the rear display, take off the vertical. If you are going to use the vertical, you can rotate the screen to face you before you re-install the vertical.

As noted earlier, most L-brackets limit your use of the articulated rear screen anyway.

---------------
Dear Walter,
Thanks for your email.


The protruding ledge is prevents the display from opening.
Without the protruding ledge, the display also can't be opening.
The protruding ledge would prevent customer misoperation.

You could remove the L bracket when you are not taking the vertical shoting.

Have a nice day.
Vivian
发件人: Walter
发送时间: 2020年7月15日 10:38
收件人: [email protected] <[email protected]>
主题:Question about your Olympus EM5 III L-bracket

Hello sirs,

I just received your L-bracket for the Olympus EM5 III. I have one question. Which is the purpose for the protruding ledge on the vertical Arca-Swiss plate shown in this photo? The ledge that is right over the hinge for the rear display?

The ledge prevents the display from opening. Why is that?

Thanks,
Walter
 

Linh

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I got the Haoge in today. I have to say... my initial impressions aren't favorable. But mostly due to shape rather than anything else. It sticks out more than I anticipated, but because of the sharper angles, it isn't comfortable for me. Ironically, I picked it over the Fittest partly because I liked the design more, lol. Feels good construction wise. Hands are just about a M, but skinny fingers.
 
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I’m sending my Haoge back. Just can’t come to terms with the slight give at the base due to not fully touching all along the bottom of the body. I guess sometimes the finer details bother me more than I’d like to admit.
 

fStop16

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I am returniong mine also for the same reasons as Quadna71. Don't know what I will do now. Considering the RRS plate from B&H Photo.
 

Holoholo55

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I’m sending my Haoge back. Just can’t come to terms with the slight give at the base due to not fully touching all along the bottom of the body. I guess sometimes the finer details bother me more than I’d like to admit.
I see the sliver of light between the bracket and the base of the camera, but that doesn't seem to affect the solidity of the mount. I mounted the camera on a tripod with the bracket and it feels solid, with no play. It may not be perfect, but I don't have the same issue with mine.
 

Michael Meissner

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I just received my Fittest L-bracket. I'm glad the left side is removable, because it would interfere with how I shoot with the camera.

Using the fully articulating screen (FAS), I typically rotate it out to the left, and then adjust the angle so I can see the display. With the left side of the bracket attached, you can rotate the screen to the left, but you can't adjust the angle of the display.

Also there was no way to attach a USB micro-B cable to the camera with the left side attached. I tried it in various positions between extended and next to the body, and with the slight variation that you can mount the left plate to the bottom. I didn't try the shutter release or microphone, but I assume they would have the same problem. If the left side could have been extended a little further, it might have been possible to attach/remove the cables. Or if the cable is already attached, it may have worked when the left plate was fully extended.

So since I use the USB cable daily, and the shutter release cable every so often, I doubt I will mount the left side ever, unless I want to do tripod shots in portrait orientation without using the shutter release, microphone, or USB cables.

Kudos to making the Allen wrench for attaching the left side magnetic. I would have preferred to use normal Phillips screws to attach the left side and dispense with the Allen wrench. Or if they went with the Allen wrench, the other two screws (one to adjust how far out the left side goes, and the other to attach it to the camera) should have also used the same Allen wrench.

Having two 1/4-20" and one 3/8" screws on the bottom and left side is handy for attaching plates or other gear. Note, the 1/4-20" holes do not align to a nodal point, so if you do 360 degree shots, you will either have to remove the Fittest L-bracket or adapt in post processing. Of course not having the left side normally mounted means you do lose the 8 1/4-20" holes for mounting things like a microphone.
 

RAH

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Also there was no way to attach a USB micro-B cable to the camera with the left side attached. I tried it in various positions between extended and next to the body, and with the slight variation that you can mount the left plate to the bottom. I didn't try the shutter release or microphone, but I assume they would have the same problem. If the left side could have been extended a little further, it might have been possible to attach/remove the cables. Or if the cable is already attached, it may have worked when the left plate was fully extended.
...
Kudos to making the Allen wrench for attaching the left side magnetic. I would have preferred to use normal Phillips screws to attach the left side and dispense with the Allen wrench. Or if they went with the Allen wrench, the other two screws (one to adjust how far out the left side goes, and the other to attach it to the camera) should have also used the same Allen wrench.
I see what you mean about the USB micro-B cable not working. What is needed is a right-angle cable. I found one at B&H:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...h_usbaub1mla_left_angle_micro_usb_to_usb.html
I think that would work. They sell a left and right-angle version. I couldn't tell which is correct, so I ordered both (about $7.50 each; I can spring for it!).

As far as shutter releases, my B&H one (and also another one I have that is an intervalometer) has a right-angle connector, so it is easy to connect. Here is a picture:
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)


I'm not quite sure what you mean about the various screws and sizes. On the Fittest bracket I have, all the bolts it has use the Allen wrench, including the one that tightens the slide for the left bracket and the 2 that hold the left bracket onto the slider plate.

Speaking of the slider plate and left bracket, it is difficult to remove and add the bracket because of those 2 bolts. But I think an easier way is to remove the entire slider-bracket setup by fully loosening the slider bolt and sliding the slider completely off, but LEAVING THE LEFT BRACKET still attached. You then can easily add or remove that entire bracket setup by just sliding the slider in and replacing the screw that holds it on the bottom. Here is a pic:
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
 

Michael Meissner

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I see what you mean about the USB micro-B cable not working. What is needed is a right-angle cable. I found one at B&H:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...h_usbaub1mla_left_angle_micro_usb_to_usb.html
I think that would work. They sell a left and right-angle version. I couldn't tell which is correct, so I ordered both (about $7.50 each; I can spring for it!).
Yes, I forgot about right/left angle connectors.

<edit>
It turns out I had a left-angle micro USB cable and it works. With the left plate fully extended, I can wiggle the cord in and remove it. The left-angle cable has the USB cable going up. A right-angle cable would run into the Allen screws that attaches the left plate.

For the left-angle cable, if you look at the micro USB-B trapezoid with the cable pointing to the right, the larger part will be on the bottom.

As far as shutter releases, my B&H one (and also another one I have that is an intervalometer) has a right-angle connector, so it is easy to connect.
Mine are straight, but it should be easy to find right angle audio extender cables.

<edit>
I don't seem to have any right-angle 2.5mm 3 port audio extender cables for the shutter release or right-angle 3.5mm 3 port audio extender cables for the microphone.

If you do video output to HDMI you would need a similar micro-USB connector cable that angles. Something like:
I'm not quite sure what you mean about the various screws and sizes. On the Fittest bracket I have, all the bolts it has use the Allen wrench, including the one that tightens the slide for the left bracket and the 2 that hold the left bracket onto the slider plate.
I didn't notice that the screw that attaches to the camera and the other one that adjusts the sliding left plate in/out had both normal screw slots, but on the inside the Allen wrench works. Thanks.

That being said, I tend to dislike Allen wrenches in general.
 
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Yes the only difference is probably the name printed on it.
I preferred Fittest to Sunlytour as a name, but that's not a sufficient reason to wait 1 more month to get it.
 

RAH

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I just ordered a clone of the fittest bracket on amazon:
https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B088WWGQHD/
A little more expensive than on ebay but I will get it next Wednesday...
Yup, it looks exactly the same. I do want to mention my idea of a better way to quickly remove/add the left bracket again (see photo above). If you leave the bracket permanently attached to the slider plate, it is easy to just remove the entire assembly (slider plus bracket) by removing the large bolt on the bottom and sliding the whole unit out. I found it VERY fiddly trying to add or remove those 2 bolts that hold the bracket to the slider, and removing the whole unit is much faster and easier. It also has the slight benefit of making the grip + bottom plate lighter in weight. Good luck with it!! :)

Forgot to mention - don't make the mistake I almost made - you cannot remove the bolt that holds the slider plate to the bottom of the base plate unless the slider is in the fully closed (all the way in) position. It is one of those special bolts that has a smooth middle section so it can slide, and the threaded hole it is in is larger than the slide portion. So the bolt has to be in that all-in position to be unscrewed all the way out (arca-swiss plates use this arrangement too for some of their bolts).
 
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Yup, it looks exactly the same. I do want to mention my idea of a better way to quickly remove/add the left bracket again (see photo above). If you leave the bracket permanently attached to the slider plate, it is easy to just remove the entire assembly (slider plus bracket) by removing the large bolt on the bottom and sliding the whole unit out. I found it VERY fiddly trying to add or remove those 2 bolts that hold the bracket to the slider, and removing the whole unit is much faster and easier.
Yes, I think that is exactly the point of this lower slider...
It makes a bigger loose part compared to the Haoge... but it seems to be the best way to deal with it.
It's no so dramatic to have to attach this part when needed, especially with the allen key hidden inside the base plate (so you don't lose time to find it :) it's never when you think it is)

Globally, this bracket seems to be quite good, and the price is quite low... so it's definitely worth a try.
 

Michael Meissner

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Yup, it looks exactly the same. I do want to mention my idea of a better way to quickly remove/add the left bracket again (see photo above). If you leave the bracket permanently attached to the slider plate, it is easy to just remove the entire assembly (slider plus bracket) by removing the large bolt on the bottom and sliding the whole unit out. I found it VERY fiddly trying to add or remove those 2 bolts that hold the bracket to the slider, and removing the whole unit is much faster and easier. It also has the slight benefit of making the grip + bottom plate lighter in weight. Good luck with it!! :)
That works. Thanks. It removes those annoying side bolts as well (when I'm not using the left side base).
 

Michael Meissner

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One other note, I've been reorganizing my man cave (err, living room), and I was just organizing my dummy batteries into their own bucket. I noticed that the Fittest grip has a hole next to the battery compartment, and I thought cool, I can snake the cord out through that hole. Unfortunately, the hole is not large enough for the 5.5mm x 2.1mm power socket that comes with the dummy battery to connect to the 9v power supply. If I wanted use it, I would have to splice in a thinner power connector to use that hole to snake the cable out, and then connect that to the standard power cords.

I tried it with the smaller 4.0mm x 1.7mm power socket that Panasonic uses, and that also is too large.

And the depth of the Fittest grip is not deep enough that I can just let the battery door hang there when I'm using a dummy battery, so I assume I will need to take the door off.

Looking at the Haoge adapter pictures, it does not have an opening near the battery door.
 
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I received my LB-EM5 III grip today.
There's no brand on it, that's even better :)

I tried it briefly and there's good and bad things.
The good is the Arca L-plate. It's easy to use, the allen key fits in the base, the L-bracket is easily removable, has space for the strap lugs, and can be set in a way you still use (a little) the LCD screen.
The opening for the battery door is perfect. The rotation is blocked, which makes it better than the 3 legged thing Ellie Short I already own (but the vertical part of the Ellie Short doesn't do well with the strap lugs)

The bad is the handling with the grip. I much prefer without it (or with the Ellie Short). The lower right part, at the rear, is not comfortable in my hands.
Maybe I didn't find a good way to take the camera.
It's funny because I remember liking the handling of the ECG-5 grip and it seems to be quite similar in this area.

However, I didn't want it for the grip, but for the L-bracket, so even if I'd have preferred a better handling, it'll be perfect for the job.
 

fStop16

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I see the sliver of light between the bracket and the base of the camera, but that doesn't seem to affect the solidity of the mount. I mounted the camera on a tripod with the bracket and it feels solid, with no play. It may not be perfect, but I don't have the same issue with mine.
Not only did I see the sliver of light, but I was able to pass a piece of paper between the camera body and the bracket.
 

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