Adapter for Meade telescope

Discussion in 'Adapted Lenses' started by Marine Paethor, Feb 17, 2014.

  1. Marine Paethor

    Marine Paethor Mu-43 Regular

    Feb 17, 2013
    I had someone at work just give a short Meade telescope. I would really like to find an adapter for it, but I'm not sure what mount it is, so I was hoping someone might have run across one of these, and might know what adapter is needed. I have a T2 adapter already, but that adapter is too large for the threaded mount on the Meade. I tried Google, but wasn't able to come up with an answer. Here are a couple of pictures





    Thanks for any info anyone can provide.
  2. wjiang

    wjiang Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    There's a difference between T and T2 mount. Also, often the telescope will need an adaptor to go to T mount, and then you use another adaptor to go from T mount to your camera. A Google search for Meade T mount adaptor suggests that you need to get some sort of special adaptor specific to the telescope to go to T mount, e.g.
  3. Petrochemist

    Petrochemist Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Mar 21, 2013
    N Essex, UK
    It looks like the scope takes 1.25" eyepieces via the triangular prism bit..
    There are several ways to conect a camera to such a scope:

    Afocal – using both an eyepiece on the telescope and the cameras lens. Basically just photographing the image produced by the telescope as it’s used for normal observing. This can be done with any camera, and if there’s enough light the camera can even be handheld. In lower light situations a variety of mounts are available either connecting the eyepiece to the lenses filter rings or holding the camera by the tripod mount. Some sources state that the camera should be separated from the eyepiece by the focal length of it’s lens, and that both telescope & camera should be focused at infinity
    Combined focal length of system is the telescopes objective focal length x the cameras focal length divided by the eyepieces focal length.</SPAN>
    In testing, my kit mainly using a 8-24mm zoom eyepiece produced severe vignetting unless long camera lenses were used. With a moderate 24mm eyepiece this gave a 5420mm f/40 combination (not including crop factor), which explains why the images are soft! Zooming in the EP to 8mm gives ~16000mm f/128 quite unworkable.</SPAN>
    My widest eyepiece (40mm) gave the best results for this approach.

    Prime focus – no eyepiece or lens on the camera, with the sensor placed at the focus of the telescope itself. Only possible for interchangeable lens cameras. Focal length and aperture are obviously just those of the telescope itself. SLRs can’t usually get close enough for Newtonian scopes. Micro 4/3 can using a c mount adapter and a c threaded tube, which worked fairly well (650mm f5 on my scope). On your scope you can get adapters to mount the camera directly at the back, but the C-mount route is probably much cheaper.
    Negative projection – no eyepiece or lens but a barlow or camera teleconverter is used. Solves the distance problem for DSLRs, and reduces the risk of sensor dust with prime focus. Generally gave me reasonable results (~1000mm f7.5 to 1300mm f10 effective)
    Positive projection – using an eyepiece but no lens on the camera, Only possible for interchangeable lens cameras. Degree of magnification is controlled by the spacing of the eyepiece to the sensor, as well as focal lengths.
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