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Adapter blues

Discussion in 'Adapted Lenses' started by zorki1, Sep 16, 2010.

  1. zorki1

    zorki1 Mu-43 Regular

    47
    Aug 26, 2010
    I have an EPL-1 and have bought four adapters. None of them will focus to infinity. I have a Nikon, m39, an m42 and another m42 which I bought since the first one is off. The second m42 is off the same as the first, it hits infinity at a little past 30ft.I thought maybe the camera is defective ,but the kit lens does fine. The adapters came from a seller recomended here and the second m42 came from Fotodiox. the m39 I will live with as I have a bunch of spare FSU lenses which I dedicated to the EPL-1 by shimming each to the adapter. Am I missing something or do I have a bunch of bum adapters?
     
  2. Michael E

    Michael E Mu-43 Rookie

    18
    May 1, 2010
    Crawley England
    What do you mean by "will not focus to infinity"? Do you mean:

    1] You cannot focus on infinity [or distant] whatever position the lens is set

    Or

    2] When the lens is set to infinity, distant [i.e. infinity] objects are out of focus but can be brought in to focus by backing the lens to a closer distance.


    I ask because I've read a lot of adapter descriptions which state "retains infinity focus" as did the Roxsen adapter I bought recently. But I've been disappointed to discover that I have the second situation above. All my shots with the lens set to infinity were slightly blurred [only noticeable once back on the PC]. I found I have to back off the lens to around 10m to get infinity focus. This is going to be too annoying to live with as each shot will have to be individually focused manually using the screen zoom function.

    I was about to pose this question as a separate topic but I'm wondering if we both have the same problem with adapters and a different make would solve the issue.
     
  3. photoSmart42

    photoSmart42 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    628
    Feb 12, 2010
    San Diego, CA
    Most of the cheaper adapters are built to make sure they meet the tolerances specs of the lens mounts, and then add a bit of margin to make sure, meaning they pretty much all focus just past infinity. You'll have to pay $200+ to get an adapter that's perfect (Novoflex, Cameraquest, Voigtlander, Panasonic/Olympus, etc.). When using the cheap adapters, it's best to not rely on the lens marking for focus, but instead to actually focus visually through the EVF.
     
  4. zorki1

    zorki1 Mu-43 Regular

    47
    Aug 26, 2010
    I was experiencing 2. I have them fixed now, the Nikon required an .011 shim under the bayonet and the m42 a .023 shim. The m42 is the kind with set screws to loosen to align the lens orientation so it was easy to remove the threaded part and stick a shim under it. I made shims out of thin plastic sheets I had laying around. The other m42 is non adjustable ,but, thats ok, I have a single FSU m42 lens that I will shim and just leave that adapter on it.
     
  5. Michael E

    Michael E Mu-43 Rookie

    18
    May 1, 2010
    Crawley England
    That's a useful bit of info. I'll give it a go with mine. Thanks.
     
  6. zorki1

    zorki1 Mu-43 Regular

    47
    Aug 26, 2010
    Another thing I noticed is that looking into the back of the Nikon and the m42 is some chrome shining, the Nikon bayonet is visible and the threaded insert of the m42 is visible. Time for a little flat black.
     
  7. Jimboh

    Jimboh Mu-43 Regular

    75
    Sep 17, 2010
    Florida
    For the noobs, as others have indicated, many of the $50 e-bay Nikon/Canon/Leica (etc) --> m4/3 adapters will focus past infinity, so you have to be careful to not just roll the adapted lens to the infinity mark, bus come back a bit.
    On the Panny GH-1, you can put the camera in focus mode dial to manual focus, then press left arrow (on the 4-way dialpad on camera back), use the front dial to define how tight you want to zoom in then press the Meun/Set button to "super zoom" to get your focus. Half press on shutter will take you out of this mode to get your shot. Not as complicated as it sounds.

    PS I didn't know about shims, I was using duct tape when I wanted to fix my lens on long shot focus. Nice to know!
     
  8. zorki1

    zorki1 Mu-43 Regular

    47
    Aug 26, 2010
    Heres my method. Put an autofocus slr with a 50mm on a table tripod with a bright light behind it. Set the 50mm wide open and focus set at infinity. Put whatever adapter/lens you are testing on your camera, set to wide open and infinity then look into the 50mm on the slr. The focus brackets should look sharp. It is important to set the lenses at wide open as any other setting and dof will affect the outcome.Its a straight forward way of doing things,but keep in mind it may take some time as you have to remove and replace shims to get it right. Its better than adding shims then walking outside to test it.
     
  9. Michael E

    Michael E Mu-43 Rookie

    18
    May 1, 2010
    Crawley England
    I've got mine sorted out now after some trial and error followed by a more technical approach.

    First off I measured roughly with a ruler how much the lens extended when I backed the focus off to bring the distant object [infinity] in to focus. Eyeball told me 0.5mm. I found three tiny washers of about this thickness and spaced out the bayonet mount using these at the three screw points. I wasted a bit of time by forgetting to open up the lens [OM 50 1.8] to max aperture and initially had been using F11. This of course allowed too much latitude. When I realised my oversight and stopped to 1.8 the distant object would not come in to sharp focus so 0.5mm was too much.

    Now the technical approach. I measured the lens/adapter distance from camera mount to front of lens using a digital caliper. These can now be found fairly cheaply. At f1.8 I focused on the distant object. Noting the lens position in case it moved, I carefully removed it and measured the lens/adapter distance again. It showed an extension of 0.25mm.

    Having no washers this thin I searched around the house for something plasticky this thick but found nothing. Then on my desk right in front of me I picked up a junk mail card which was exactly the right thickness. Finally, I found a use for junk mail. Using a compass I drew a circle outer and inner diameters to act as a spacer.

    Another test run has given me sharp photos at f1.8 with my lens at infinity. And given that I would rarely shoot at 1.8, stopping down would take care of any slight loss of sharpness that I may not have noticed and would take too long messing about with ever so slightly different thicknesses to discover.
     
  10. stanleyk

    stanleyk Guest

    99
    May 26, 2010
    Michael-

    My Konica adapter does this. The Novoflex one I have for K mount is perfect, but it better be considering how much it cost. I've been contemplating buying another one for Konica, but I've just kind of learned to live with backing off. The Konica one is from Rainbow Imaging.
     
  11. zorki1

    zorki1 Mu-43 Regular

    47
    Aug 26, 2010
    Thats a good method, it beats swapping out shims until you get it right.
     
  12. kiynook

    kiynook Mu-43 Regular

    70
    Aug 16, 2010
    Same here...all my adapters focus slightly past infinity (about 1mm or so turn on the focusing ring)....china made...I prefer this to the vice versa...

    best to focus via EVF...

    the useful DOF markings on the lens unfortunately cannot be used...its a shame..
     
  13. Michael E

    Michael E Mu-43 Rookie

    18
    May 1, 2010
    Crawley England
    I do not find it best to focus using the screen. When you've got a 50mm [or more] lens attached and you zoom in on the screen it's pretty damned hard trying to hold the camera steady enough to get a sharp focus. Now that I've shimmed my lens I need never do this. Infinity on the lens gives me a sharp infinity focus. Always. Quickly. No messing.
     
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  14. Brianetta

    Brianetta Mu-43 Veteran

    438
    Sep 5, 2010
    North East England
    Brian Ronald
    I don't have a manual lens any more, but I used to have a selection of M42 lenses for my Praktica BMS, for which I used an adapter. The adapter nudged the focus out slightly. I added a little index mark to the focus ring (in the same manner as the infra-red mark that usually already existed) so that I could focus to a given distance (including infinity) using that mark instead of the central one.

    Of course, you'd probably shudder to learn that I added this index with the point of my compasses. I was still at school. (-: