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40-150 first few times doing moon shots, some questions=)

Discussion in 'Native Lenses' started by weeowee, Dec 1, 2012.

  1. weeowee

    weeowee Mu-43 Regular

    May 6, 2012
    hi=) just wanted to ask using my 40-150 oly lens on my omd what can i do to make my shots better? setting is mostly 1/250 iso200 with wb at custom 4000-5000 or sunny and f11 or 16. handheld since i want to practice handheld. anyway, another question is which one is more natural looking , i did not do any editing just cropped... but the one with 5000 wb looked more orangey...

    moon3 by nwb_02, on Flickr

    moon by nwb_02, on Flickr
  2. hazwing

    hazwing Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Nov 25, 2012
    i've never shot the moon before, but why f11/f16? What sort of shutter speeds are doing hand held? I'd imagine they would be quite long if your using iso 200 and f11.

    From reviews, I gather the 40-150 is sharpest between f5.6 and f8.
  3. Ulfric M Douglas

    Ulfric M Douglas Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 6, 2010
    You want to practice handheld ... on the moon?

    For me Number2 looks nicer, the first seems a trifle too amber even though at the time it may have been exactly that colour.
  4. LowTEC

    LowTEC Mu-43 Regular

    F16 is way off from the optimal aperture, the sharpest aperture should be around f8. but 150 is kinda short for moon shots, and handheld? :) 
  5. DL Photo

    DL Photo Mu-43 Veteran

    Nov 15, 2012
    Richmond, BC, Canada
    Just a couple of comments.

    Firstly, looks underexposed. Best way to improve this is to slow the shutter speed.

    I prefer the second WB, but the great thing about shooting the moon is that you can change the WB or colours to suit your likes.

    F9 or f11 is good. Lowest ISO for your camera is best. Try 1/160 or slower to up the exposure BUT you will then need a tripod though to get a crisp pic.

    Looking forward to round number 2.
  6. gardengirl13

    gardengirl13 Mu-43 Veteran

    Jun 26, 2012
    I shoot the moon at ISO 200-800 (depending on the brightness/fullness) on M with the shutter speed of 1/500 and f/5.6 usually. I keep the WB to auto. Here's what I get with my 40-150.

    moon photo - gardengirl13 photos at pbase.com

    harvest moon photo - gardengirl13 photos at pbase.com

    This lens isn't all that great for shooting the moon. But with practice it's doable. I always handhold moon shots. The moon is a lot brighter then you may think. With the old DSLR stuff these were the same settings I used. Handholding at 1/500 is easy with an equiv. of 300mm. I've never used a tripod for my moon shots. Basically hold your elbows to your sides take a breath, release and hold it then shoot.
  7. uci2ci

    uci2ci Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jun 22, 2012
    Los Angeles, CA
    I find it not too difficult to do handheld moon shots. This was taken a few nights ago using 100-300mm Lumix and I just processed it to give you an example. with a 150mm, you might not be able crop it this tight, but I'm sure you can get good results nonetheless

    [ 8236102978_cf8bde00b0_z.

    You absolutely must use manual mode for moon shots since metering will be way off in A and S. ISO 200 always works for me. I like to set the aperture to lowest possible as well: 5.6 on my zoom (DOF become somewhat irrelevant at infinity focus..it will be huge regardless of f-stop). You could check reviews of your lens and see whats the sharpest aperture, or just test it yourself, but I found that at infinity focus I don't get a noticeable rise in sharpness between f5.6 and say f8, so I just leave as wide as possible. Depending on atmospheric conditions, auto-focus may or may not work, so dont always trust it and check zoomed LV for sharpness. With some kind of IS, shutter speeds should be plenty high to cancel out hand jitters (this was taken at 1/800). Leaning on something will help a lot, and this is one situation where I find that using the viewfinder actually makes things worse because tilting my head up throws me off balance, but YMMV. Take a few shots and pixel-peep them on the camera's LCD to see if they are sharp. They may look underwhelming (thats where PP comes in), but once you see a few sharp moon shots form your lens, you'll have a good idea of whats considered "sharp" for your setup as seen on the camera's LCD

    Most importantly though is post processing. Shoot RAW and ticker with Sharpening and Clarity in Lightroom; they help tremendously in bringing out the details in your moon shots. This photo was sharpened to 50, with a radius of 1.5, and Clarity set close to max (88), so be generous. I also get green fringing in most of my moon shots so I desaturate green hues along with regular green de-fringing.
    • Like Like x 5
  8. savvy

    savvy Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Sep 28, 2012
    S.Yorkshire, UK
    Very helpful post, Sam, Thanks.
    • Like Like x 1
  9. weeowee

    weeowee Mu-43 Regular

    May 6, 2012
    oh okok thanks=) f11 and f16 because of some posts i read about how to shoot the moon and that's what they recommend. I want to practice handheld in general so i avoid my tripod doing any shots but i guess next time i'll use one=)
  10. MajorMagee

    MajorMagee Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 24, 2011
    Dayton, OH
    Sometimes it's easier if it's not a Full Moon.
    E-PL1    ---    0mm    f/1.0    1/20s    ISO 200

    E-PL1 with Soligor 75-250mm and 2x Teleconverter at 250mm, f8, 1/20 sec, ISO 200
    Hand Held with IS Mode 1.
    • Like Like x 2
  11. Spuff

    Spuff Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Dec 5, 2010
    Berkshire, UK.
    Personally I think you've over sharpened - you have a lot of grain in the bits that should be smooth.

    I'm not totally satisfied with this shot (100-300, not hand held) - but way off in A?
    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/safetytrousers/8238110296/" title="moon orf by Safetytrousers, on Flickr"> 8238110296_8c1e9e383b. "500" height="500" alt="moon orf"></a>
  12. weeowee

    weeowee Mu-43 Regular

    May 6, 2012
    nice, i'll start saving up for a 100-300mm=) I just bought the oly 60mm so my lens fund is depleted=)
  13. weeowee

    weeowee Mu-43 Regular

    May 6, 2012
    tried to edit my picture it came out grainy but atleast it's clearer... a bit... what do you guys think? the one i posted before didn't have any editing done.
    moon by nwb_02, on Flickr
  14. David A

    David A Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 30, 2011
    Brisbane, Australia
    Haven't tried this but keep meaning to, just to see if it works.

    Back in the film days there was the "sunny 16" rule, F/16 with a shutter speed equal to 1/your ISO rating so at ISO200 your exposure was 1/200 sec at F/16 for a bright sunny scene.

    I read somewhere that for the moon there's a "moonie 8" rule, ie the correct exposure for the moon is to set your shutter speed the same way and just use F/8 instead of F/16.

    As I said, I keep meaning to give it a go.
  15. uci2ci

    uci2ci Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jun 22, 2012
    Los Angeles, CA
    Beautiful shot!

    Your right, dropping the exposure in A will give u the same effect as using manual. I would still use manual if im handholding because even a -3.0 EV might not give me the shutter speed that i need. I would rather underexpose a bit than have a slow shutter speed. If im using a tripod, thats a different story.

    As far as sharpening, i guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder :smile: handholding at 600mm equiv, even at 1/800, might not give me the clearest of pictures....so i sharpen until it looks good to me.

  16. Spuff

    Spuff Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Dec 5, 2010
    Berkshire, UK.
    Yes indeed, using a tripod for the moon is a different story to doing it handheld.

    If you're really serious about the moon then shooting through a telescope is the way to go.
    There have been a few stunning moons through a telescope on this site.
  17. weeowee

    weeowee Mu-43 Regular

    May 6, 2012
  18. Djarum

    Djarum Super Moderator Subscribing Member

    Dec 15, 2009
    Huntsville, AL, USA
    You don't have to have a telescope. A good quality manual or legacy lens will work too. Keep in mind that the longer the focal length atmospheric turbulence comes into play as well as earths rotation and moon orbit.

    Taken with a 1000mm focal length 203mm aperture reflector telescope and epl2. Image is soft because of turbulence, which alters the exact focus point. 1000mm focal length on micro four third fits the moon barely into the frame. No cropping here, just scaling.

    E-PL2    ---    0mm    f/1.0    1/160s    ISO 200

    Taken with a 660mm focal length 100mm aperture achromat and ep1, some cropping.


    And the lowly 40-150, lots of cropping.

    E-P1    ---    150mm    f/6.3    1/160s    ISO 100
  19. Djarum

    Djarum Super Moderator Subscribing Member

    Dec 15, 2009
    Huntsville, AL, USA
    This is a nice shot.
  20. weeowee

    weeowee Mu-43 Regular

    May 6, 2012
    im thinking on getting the 100-300mm just for moon and casual shots or a telescope. the telescope good enough for it is actually cheaper than the lens
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