Updates to EP1 vs. EP3 diary. I have noted the updates with (UPDATED) and first set of photos are in post 16. I've also added an IQ comparison shot between EP1 and EP2 in post #26. I looked at but never tried the EP2 or the EPL series. So, this is strictly from an EP1 users' perspective (that is, some of what I see as cool, you might have already found out with an EP2 or EPL). Ergo/handling notes: 1) It's the same size of the EP1. I had read somewhere that the hotshoe was "flush" with the body and therefore shorter, but I think that must have been referring to the EPL series, because in every dimension I can see, these are the exact same size. 2) The top and bottom metal plates are a different type of metal than the body plates, but in the EXACT same way as the EP1. There are some differences in the molded lines, and there's a hole for the AF assist light (thankfully!) and some dials are moved, but these cameras look essentially the same. If you love the EP1 (as I do), this is just like getting an EP1, but with different buttons and more toys! One minor complaint is the power button has moved, and for me, it's a little too close now to my hand, but I'll get used to it, and the reasons its there are pretty obvious (i.e. to make room for the flash and reconfigured control dial). The hot shoe cover feels much more secure than the EP1 cover, which I lost on my EP1 almost immediately. This one feels like it might stay around a least a few months longer. Note on the bottom plate: around the tripod mount hole, the bottom plate now has ribs (the EP1 is smooth around the tripod mount), so hopefully this will allow better gripping of my tripod, and reduce the need/desire to over-tighten the tripod. Nice attention to detail Oly! The stereo mics have moved from the front of the top plate to the top of the top plate. No idea what this means/will do, but they have moved. 2b) LCD - The LCD on the EP3 seems bigger, but this is not the case. There is a black bezel around the LCD which eats up a good chunk of space. ADDITIONALLY the LCD is native 3:2 format, whereas the sensor is native 4:3. When in 4:3 mode the EP3 has SIDEBARS and the actual image is SMALLER than the EP1 in 4:3 mode. In 3:2 mode, the EP3's image is LARGER than on the EP1. In either case, of course, the LCD resolution of the EP3 is always higher. Overall, though, the LCD has much less static/noise and gains up more cleanly than the EP1. In direct sunlight, I don't see a huge difference in viewability between the EP3 LCD and the EP1 LCD. Of course, when zooming in, the EP3 LCD gives you better detail because of the higher resolution. 3) The menus are improved. After two years of use on the EP1, I still struggle sometimes to find the menu option I want. The EP3's menus have friendlier helps, are better labeled, and are reorganized more logically. Also, there are now MORE configuration options (like you can do a rule of thirds grid, or like 3-4 other choices. I think the EP1 only had two choices). There is a pop-up help dialogue that appears if you stay on a menu choice longer than 2 seconds. These can be turned on/off using the "info" button while in the menu view. The descriptions are very helpful, but are annoying once you know your way around, so this toggle is appreciated. 4) AF Assist Lamp! Oh my! How useful this is going to be! I shot a picture under my desk with the 14-150 at about f/5.6. No chance the EP1 is getting that focus. The EP3 w/assist light rocked back and forth twice, but locked on. A vast improvement. 5) Pop Up Flash! It's just like a compact camera's flash -- harsh, etc. but for casual shooting, it's going to be great to have this for fill in. I already did some test, where I set the movie record button to AEL, metered off the bright background, and then used the pop up for fill in. 6) Focusing! What can I say. It's doing what I always wanted the EP1 to do. It focuses very fast. As fast as my 5D? Not sure. I'll have to check, but not too far off in either direction. But, I can now shrink down the green box, so focusing is more precise (I understand this came with the EPL series, but it's nice here). As with all contrast AF, the EP3 is still showing a propensity to focus on the highest contrast object, even if that item just behind or just in front of the subject. But if you miss focus, trying again is VERY quick. As Ray noted below, you can toggle the touch screen to touch-to-shoot, touch-to-pick focus point, or off. I did a lot of testing with touching to pick the focus point, and that's VERY handy, but I also tested touch-to-shoot (See post #16 below for some screen shot image samples). This was great, because I could compose a layered shot (with subjects in forground/background) and then try with focus on either one, without moving to center focus and then recompose. This is sweeet and will be great for macro, too. I'll try to include some samples below. One complaint: AE doesn't follow your focus point. You should have that option -- maybe if you were using spot AE for instance. Then I think it should use the touch point for AE settings. Oh well. Maybe this could be updated in FW? 7) The grip! The out-of-the-box grip is much better than the EP1. Honestly, I've not had an issue with the EP1 grip, and I usually have a neck or wrist strap on, but the EP3 is clearly a better grip, and I know they have the "big hands" grip option you can get, too. 8) Speed to shot! Just added this one -- speed to shot from half press is much better compared to my EP1. This is HUGE advantage for me. I just tried my Panny 20mm on the EP3, and I'm not sure sure the AF is that much faster with this lens, but the lag from focus lock to shot is pretty much gone. 9) I'm not sure if my EP1 had this, but I just stumbled upon it. If you press the +/- button and then the info button, you have the ability during live view to raise/lower highlights and shadows, and see the effect live on the screen. Just played with this once, so I'll have to see what I think about this, though I'm assuming this is mainly a jpg thing, and I usually shoot RAW. See post #16 below for a screen shot image sample. 10) Histogram. Boo! My first complaint. I started shooting with the live histogram on my EP1, and exposing to the right. This has dramatically helped me to improve the quality of my pictures. But the EP3 histogram, in my use, is inferior to the EP1. The EP1's histogram is taller and brighter. It's much easier to see, and much easier to see where highlights are clipping. The EP3's histogram is more stretched out and harder to view, being more grey than white. But my biggest complaint is in the EP1, you can hold down the EV key and adjust exposure while viewing the impact right on the histogram. In the EP3, when you go into EV adjust, the histogram disappears! So, you have to press the EV button, adjust, press EV again (to exit EV mode) and then see if you are where you want to be. This is almost a deal breaker for me, but I wonder if Oly could change this in a FW update. 11) Another complaint. Maybe minor. Not sure: The manual is labeled the "concise version." I don't know what the extensive version is, but this one looks like it was made at the last second. In just a few minutes I found two errors. On page 8, it says the Fn2 key is described on page 89. Flip to page 89 and that's the end of the book with the FCC notices. On page 24, it says turn to page 32 and 33 to learn more about the histogram. Pages 32 and 33 don't have histogram information, but pages 26 and 27 do. 12) This was probably already known, but I missed it. The EP3 doesn't seem to have ISO 100, and I already hit an issue this morning with that. You lose a whole stop moving from the EP1 to the EP3. Of course, there's also higher ISO available. Why the world is infatuated with shooting in the dark is beyond me (sorry -- just a mini rant) UPDATED Capacitive touch screen for family action is fantastic. See https://www.mu-43.com/f42/ep3-rocks-family-action-touch-screen-incredible-14664/#post131941 for more details.