- Sep 7, 2013
- Christchurch, New Zealand
Interesting.Maybe you got an updated version,but my version was only for manual focus,not SAF or CAF. I manually refocused each time and used a cable release. Some runs are completely invalid and have to be done again.
Well, if you need more DOF, you can stop down on FF to arrive at the same point as M43. Whereas the M43 cannot suck in any more light. A high res FF sensor also gives you a built-in TC15, so you can use a 300F4 at 300 and 450, which can be nice.I seen Tony's video the other day.
Then he made a silly argument about how m43 users praising that you get more depth of field on the Oly 300mm and that it was desirable. His counter argument is that that on FF lenses you can always raise your aperture to get more in focus but you can't get more background blur on M43. Sounds like a logical statement and while true, raising your aperture on any lens including F to get more in focus means you're getting less light. Less light means cranking up the ISO's which affects ultimate image quality. He forgot to mention that important bit of info and did so conveniently.
I did send my 300 in to Olympus Repair and while they supposedly adjusted something I did not see any real improvement. I have never focus tuned the lens and camera either. Mine also seems to be like Alex implies, it has good days and it has bad days.For the record, I've definitely had mixed results from my copy of the 300/4, as has @Harvey Melvin Richards with his. Mine can produce very crisp images sometimes, and distinctly fuzzy ones at others. I've spent a fair amount of time trying to isolate the cause, and I'm fairly confident that it isn't lack of technique, at least not all the time. There is definitely some kind of intermittent issue with the focus mechanism on my copy which I haven't yet had the courage to send in for repair, and sometimes I wonder if there may be a problem with the gyros too, but that's just guesswork. Either way, I have definitely captured better images with the Panasonic 100-300mm than I have with the 300/4 on one of its bad days.
So on the basis of my personal experience, I would say that TN's findings could well be perfectly genuine. That's not to say that such results are typical of the 300/4 however, as ample evidence on this forum proves, and that's where he is being misleading, either intentionally or unintentionally.
CDAF has finite precision just like PDAF so you can definitely still get errors with CDAF, you just won't get any systematic offset like you can with PDAF.The focus tuning only applies to PDAF right? S-AF should do a final CDAF confirmation, so it should not be possible to get focus errors.
Did you mean “+ or -2” ?Tony needs someone to advise him how to set up Lens AF micro adjustment in the menu (for CAF). My 300 Pro was soft wide open until I dialed in a +2 (out of the + or - 20 available). It is now tack sharp.
Chances are he has already calibrated his DSLR and 600 f4.0 (everyone knows DSLR 's need cslibration) but doesn't even know the EM1 series have calibration as well.
And using SAF, the mode that is supposed to be "self calibrating" with mirrorless, is also soft with my 300 and EM1X... nothing I can do about that other than use my calibrated CAF.
The comparison with the D850 + 600E was done with the bare lens and it's equally as soft as with the MC-14 attached.Every single test shot was with the MC14 or whatever they call it. The benchmarks have never been kind to the combo, so I would say these are not unexpected results.
Mack, do you use any default sharpening settings or any other basic, essential setup options?I haven't seen any terrible resolution issues with the 300mm + MC1.4 combo. Sure the thing may miss the exact focus point during its lock-on, but many others do the same. I find the AF can hunt a bit in a burst in Pro Capture, and just a bit of a hunt leads to a soft image given the small DOF. Talking to Nikon Service, the guy told me "They could speed up the focus in the lens firmware, but doing so would result in more missed shots. Slowing it down might result in more accurately focused shots, but at a huge loss of speed. It's a trade-off." Somewhat like my slow-as-heck 60mm Olympus macro lens that takes several seconds to focus, but is spot on when it does.
On the 300mm+ TC combo, I took the photo of a juvenile hummer (lacking colors?) below on a limb yesterday with that combo. I used FastRawViewer at 70% magnification, and hit the "P" key to see the contrast it shows for focus (i.e. Hitting the "P" key once turns on a green contrast indication, and hitting it again turns on a red "Fine Detail" indication of feather fibers.). By hitting the left or right arrow key on the laptop in a burst of shots, I can watch the exact AF point move about on the limb until one was right at the bird's feet. It might move about an inch on the limb during the culling process by watching the green and red indication of where the camera focused at. There are times the focus seems to move as though it is stair-stepping up the limb during a burst series. However, the software does speed up the culling process a lot by eliminating missed-focus shots, imho.
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I did the same. I downloaded it and toyed with the trial but gave up.Mack, do you use any default sharpening settings or any other basic, essential setup options?
Ive been looking for a better way to cull and glanced at FRV but ended up writing it off as I didnt really have the time to tinker with it at the moment. That focus trick would make culling action burst shots 1000x easier.