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24mm to 28mm legacy recommendations

Discussion in 'Adapted Lenses' started by manju69, Nov 16, 2011.

  1. manju69

    manju69 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jul 1, 2011
    Stroud, UK
    While i save for the PL25! (which could well be a long save!), I might try and pick up a similar FL legacy lens. Any recommendations? Anything with similar quality as the Konica 40mm would be great, and the brighter the better, especially as you nearly always need to stop down with legacy lenses. Compact size is good too... I tried a miranda 24mm macro but found it a bit dull.
    Thanks to whoever answers in case I forget..I love this forum!
  2. dixeyk

    dixeyk Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Aug 9, 2010
    My favorite is the Olympus OM 24/2.8. Sharp, good contrast and a terrific lens. Should be able to find a good one for around $200 or so. It's the only other lens (after my Panasonic 20) that I would not part with.

    If you don't mind a slower lens the OM 28/3.5 is legendary in Japan. I also think the 28/2.8 is a good lens and very affordable. I also like the Konica 28/3.5 (probably the best bargain) and 24/2.8 (the Konica 24 is a kind of big lens for a 24). Also the Super Takumar 28/3.5 has an amazing build quality and lovely rendering.
  3. RobWatson

    RobWatson Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Not cheap but very nice (I think anyway) is Nikon Nikkor AIS 28mm F2.8. Luckily I didn't have to pay for it!
  4. addieleman

    addieleman Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 5, 2010
    The Netherlands
    In general 28mm lenses can be had for little money and 24mm lenses are generally much more expensive. I have Minolta 28mm lenses as well as a Zeiss Distagon 28/2.8; the latter is excellent and even useable wide-open but commands high prices, typically € 200 in Europe. The Minolta 28/2.8 MD lenses are quite good and quite affordable (~ € 30), the best samples are just about useable wide-open and very good at f/5.6; here is an example. A Minolta Rokkor 28/2 is quite expensive, at least € 150, and is not as good as a 28/2.8, especially corner sharpness is disappointing; the later Minolta MD 28/2 without the Rokkor designation is the best of the Minolta bunch, but very hard to come by and also expensive, € 100-150. Others here may offer their opinion on other brands/lenses, I have no experience with them.

    If you're planning to get a PanaLeica 25/1.4, I think it's wise not to spend too much on legacy glass, so a 28/2.8 would be the wisest choice. These can be had for less than € 50 from many brands like Canon, Olympus, Minolta, Nikon, Konica and Pentax. Add the usual adapter from HongKong for less than € 20 and you're set.
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Spaceghost33

    Spaceghost33 Mu-43 Veteran

    Feb 23, 2010
    Chicago, IL
    Christopher Stelter
    OM 28

    I have the Olympus 28mm 2.8 on my GF1 and am very pleased with it.
  6. labcoatguy

    labcoatguy Mu-43 Regular

    Jan 23, 2011
    Cambridge, MA, US
    I had a Sigma 24mm 2.8 that was probably similar to your Miranda macro, and sold it for its bulkiness. If you don't mind shooting wide open all the time, the Pentax 110 24mm f/2.8 is insanely compact.

    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
  7. snkenai

    snkenai Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Sep 5, 2010
    I have the vivitar 24mm f2.8 in OM mount that does very good work, though it is a heavy lens. I am getting ready to list it here, just been a bit lazy getting it done. Maybe I'll do it tomorrow.
  8. compositor20

    compositor20 Mu-43 Regular

    Oct 21, 2010
    i have a vivitar kiron 24mm f2.0 in canon fd mount that i want to sell since i have the panasonic 20mm f1.7 and my girlfriend wont use it while i have the vivitar so its a lens that i dont use often... for video its very good great colours and contrast but aberrations are high at f2.0 but in video that doesnt matter... mine is a pristine copy!
  9. Mellow

    Mellow Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 27, 2010
    Florida or Idaho
  10. chrith

    chrith Mu-43 Regular

    Nov 12, 2010
    Have you considered a 25 mm c mount? super cheap and the focal length you are looking for. Even though the results are not as traditional it could be fun to play around with to get an idea of that focal length
  11. dhazeghi

    dhazeghi Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    Aug 6, 2010
    San Jose, CA
    Agree. Canon FD 28/2.8s are dirt cheap on eBay. But it's not an especially interesting focal length on the 2x crop factor, IMO unless it's a fast lens, and f/2.8 isn't that fast. The only fast 25mm lenses (besides the m4/3 ones) are some of the C-mount lenses, which tend to be good for particular optical effects, but generally a bit odd.

    • Agree Agree x 2
  12. MajorMagee

    MajorMagee Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 24, 2011
    Dayton, OH
    I have a $42 Sirius 28mm f2.8 in OM that can close focus to 8 inches. I really like the lens for that reason, but it's not really sharp until you get to f5.6.
  13. manju69

    manju69 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jul 1, 2011
    Stroud, UK
    I have taken a look and for fun they look good but for not much more I can pick up a 28 f2.8 which will get more use. Plus I already have an olympus adapter. One thing I do know is 25mm is a focal length I love. I even went through my exit data on my kit lens pics. And nearly all the ones I have kept were around that. I got SO used to my 50mm prime all those years ago at art college, it's like I see that way. So I am
    saving for the PL25. If only Olympus would release a cheaper version!
  14. Declan97

    Declan97 Mu-43 Veteran

    Feb 3, 2012
    Padang, Indonesia
  15. dixeyk

    dixeyk Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Aug 9, 2010
    Funny thing...since I wrote that I did in fact part with my OM 24/2.8 (still think it's a superb lens) and switched to a Hexanon 24/2.8 (still thinks it's a tank size wise). I think I just wanted some change for change's sake. The OM is sharper wide open but I think the Hexanon is hard to beat after 5.6. The build quality on the Hexanon is great (I have the older EE version). I think the OM is amazing for its compactness and color but I am finding something about the way the Hexanon renders things to be very appealing. Not sure where you'll find a direct t comparison between the OM24 and the Sigma. Perhaps some folks here have both and would be willing to post a few shots.

    BTW, that Pentax 110 24/2.8 is pretty cool. I have one and it really is amazingly small.
  16. rich00

    rich00 Mu-43 Veteran

    Dec 8, 2011
    I just picked a tokina 24mm f2.8 canon fd mount and I'm pretty impressed. It's reasonably sharp wide open.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68737955@N06/6835074373/" title="Dad_crop by Rich_00, on Flickr"> View attachment 191362 "640" height="480" alt="Dad_crop"></a>
  17. Declan97

    Declan97 Mu-43 Veteran

    Feb 3, 2012
    Padang, Indonesia
    tokina 24mm f2.8 and tamron 24/2.5 was the alternatif before i decide the sigma 24/2.8, looks sharp at the wide open
  18. correos.e

    correos.e Mu-43 Regular

    Jan 25, 2012
    Check this forum for the Wesley 24mm CCTV. It looks like a very good deal for $50, not a toy lens...
  19. Paul C

    Paul C Mu-43 Regular

    Oct 29, 2017
    Legacy 28mm lenses for micro 4/3:
    Given the rate 28mm legacy lenses are being snapped up on ebay ttoday hey are clearly being bought by lots of photographers - and that is usually mirorless camera owners!

    Given that the 28mm focal length is covered by the basic kit zooms from Panasonic and Olympus then the reasons YOU have to buy an old lens have to be clear to help you chose

    Here are my reasons........

    [1] COMPOSITION: f2.8 - is faster than a m4/3 kit lens giving a shallower depth of field by 1-2 stops making it a potentially useful 3/4 length portrait lens- but it loses image stabiilisation on Panasonic cameras so the f2.8 has no exposure advantage.

    F2.0 lenses ar better still for this but cost too much when the panasonic 20mm f1.7 is available at a good price.

    Althogh almost all legacy 28mm lenses are soft at the edges when at f2.8 this is no problem for portraits. Stopping down to correct this is a waste - just use the kit zoom!

    [2] CLOSE UP: I have several 28mm that are able to manage 1;4 Close Focus. This beats the kit lens. flower photography and portrait details can be great with these.

    [3] MANUAL FOCUS: manual control of focus during video can be very useful - this is better than using "manual" AF

    [4] VIGNETTING: the old 35mm full frame lenses don't vignette compared to the c-mount 25mm lenses.

    [5] "CINEMATIC LOOK": some old lenses just have a great way of rendering an image. This is personal and is the reason some of us have a drawer full of 28mm's being tried out in the search for the "perfect look". Since these "desirable effects" are often optical abberations you may find the effect you want is seen best in the inexpensive "generic" 3rd party lens rather than the Nikons, Olympus, Canons.

    Best wishes - Paul C
    • Like Like x 1
  20. Paul C

    Paul C Mu-43 Regular

    Oct 29, 2017

    I have tried using the wideangle c-mount lenses as suggested - so here is my report:

    Even The good c-mount Chinese lenses all suffer from problems.

    [1] no click-stop aperture
    [2] actually physically too small - as you focus the aperture changes and vice-versa. Often the aperture ring is right up against the camera body
    [3] mechanically bad (remember these C-MOUNT LENSES were designed to be focused and set up once for a CCTV system, not used for a day's shooting). The result is a constant back and forth from viewfinder to fiddling with the lens. The optical benefit in a shallower depth of field then comes at a great level of frustration when shooting.
    [4] Many are measured and found not to deliver the "ultra fast" claimed F1.4 / F1.6 f-stop.

    In practice - having a legacy Olympus OM or Pentax K mount 24-28mm lenses on a manual adapter moves the lens 1-2 cm forwards and puts the aperture and focus rings in the near perfect position for your left hand to control on a Lumix G body. I have learned to click in the viewfinder magnification, focus wide-open at f2.8 and count the clicks to set my chosen aperture in a fraction of a second (for optimal IQ it is about F5.6-F8, but heck - we're using these lenses for creative effect and lines per mm are not always uppermost in my mind!). All my legacy 24-28mm lenses are mechanically great - with smooth focus and the ability to change aperture reliably with just one finger pushing or pulling.

    Now on a test-bed, the 1-1.5 stop advantages of a legacy 24-28mm lens over the kit zoom seem small. For a subject at 2m, and f2.8 on an MFT Lumix with a 24mm legacy lens, the Depth of Field will be 0.25m close and 0.34m behind the focus plane. For a 14-42 kit lens at 24mm and F4.5 the metrics are 0.38 m close and 0.6 m behind; a near enough doubling of the zone of focus which is sufficient to justify the trouble of a legacy lens.

    Move closer to a subject at one metre and compare the DoF of a 25mm F1.8 Chinese "generic" against a 24mm F2.8 legacy lens: its now 8cm vs 14cm.....hardly a deal breaker.

    However the benefit for me isn't just in simple optics - the revelation is that my creativity jumps a huge step with full manual control. It's that which makes these lenses worthwhile.

    The problem with the small Lumix and Zuiko Autofocus MFT lenses is that there is nowhere to put the aperture ring - changing aperture requires a series of button presses or finger swipes on the LCD screen. In contrast, having a manual aperture control on the lens makes modifying it easy. Then with the live view in the viewfinder giving immediate feedback - you'll find you do try out an aperture shift much more often.

    My advice is try to get a 24 or 28mm "macro" lens (these were often not true macros - but could do 1:4 or 1:5 ratios - another advantage over the MFT kit lens) and the visual flexibility they give tempts your creativity! As a result - the "cute" c-mount mini lenses that seemed so ideal to pop into the camera bag just stay in my camera bag (close focus there means unscrewing the lens and adding 1 or 2 spacer rings to the mounting). In contrast the large legacy lens and adapter are always being pulled out for use.

    Lastly - the "wasted" glass areas of the lens elements outside the central MFT crop zone just act to create internal reflections, ghosting, flare and lost contrast. As an MFT sensor uses only 1/4 the area of a 35mm full frame equivalent lens this is 75% redundant glass just there for creating optical trouble. I find that with this effect, added to the doubled focal length equivalent, I need "telephoto" lens hoods on these 24-28mm lenses to get the best out of them. I started using long metal lens hoods - but now favour the rubber "3-position" ones pushed out to their furthest extent when in use. This single addition seems to be the greatest step-up in IQ for me with these lenses. This effect may explain why there is such a premium price to be paid for high-end ultra-ultra-multicoated wideangles - a benefit that can also be had from a small spend on a lenshood.

    My hot picks at this focal length? The Cosina made 24mm "macro" F2.8 and the Cimko (Cima kogaku) made 28mm "macro" f2.8. Both were multicoated and were sold under a wide variety of brands - find the unfashionable brand version and the cost will come in cheaper than even the best deal on the Chinese C-mount lenses. But if you begin to stray into the F2.0 range - then it gets heavy on the pocket unless you can find the Cosina/Petri 28mm F2.0 (and even that is become more sought after as the joys of these "unfashionable" focal length legacy lenses become discovered).

    And the future - well who has tried out the newer 25mm F1.8 Chinese native MFT/M4-3 lenses and can report their IQ? The reports I have ready say that you loose the click-stop aperture but get another step up in shallow Depth of Field: for 25mm @f1.8 the metrics are a DoF 0.13 m close and 0.14 m behind the focus point at 2m. And what of the mechanics of these lenses in comparison with a legacy lens? As always - I am sure someone will post an answer or a link.
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2018 at 5:42 AM
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