1800 lumens isn't very bright. I found some household LED strip lights similar to fluorescents. They are 25w each and the output is claimed to be 2400 lumens. If I use two of them at about 2-3 feet I get an exposure of 1/80s f/2.8 at ISO200.
With two of the units you're talking about you can...
As others have said, depth of field is an issue at high magnification. However at the same image size the depth of field will be the same no matter the focal length. Pick the magnification you need and then focal length for working distance.
I would pick the Oly 60. The only one that gives you...
None of the apps show a "raw image". They all process the raw data to produce an image. The Olympus software as well as most of the big commercial options use embedded data to do some corrections. That accounts for the distortion and vignetting.
The histogram you see reflects the processed...
Put all the photos you want to import into a folder named DCIM. The DCIM folder should be at the root level of your SD card. If Photos doesn’t automatically ask if you want to import, open Photos and tap Import.
Without third party apps iOS will only import photos and only to the Photos app. It...
Yes, saved in the Affinity Photo file format, the layers, and undo history are saved and will work in the Mac and Windows versions.
There is a user accessible file system of some sort coming to iOS 11 in the fall. That may make accessing imported files easier. But, right now I can import raw...
If you just put a pinhole in a lens cap the hole will be much to thick. You need to remove a larger area from the middle of the cap. Cover the hole with some very thin material. Brass shim stock works very well. Put your pin hole in the shim stock. Your focal length is the distance from the hole...
I'm very amused by the "need" for 17.5mm and 42.5mm lenses to "perfectly" match their equivalent 35mm format focal lengths. Mostly because the 2X "crop" factor isn't exact. But also because "classic" lenses with "classic" focal lengths were rarely the focal length they were marked as.
Totally off topic. How is it using the Roundflash ring adapter with m43 gear. I've looked at it a couple of times, but I'm concerned it would dwarf an EM10 with a 45/1.8. Would those bungees even grab a 45/1.8?
The profile is embedded in the raw file. Lightroom will apply the profile. You can't turn it off. The profile isn't in Lightroom's database of profiles so it doesn't show up in the drop down menu in the distortion correction panel.
Well, between 17 and 25 I'd go for the 17. I just find it more versatile.
However my first prime has always been a short tele. Any one of the 45ish choices is what I'd go for. Except the 45/2.8 macro. I'd want something faster. Unless I specifically wanted macro. Then I'd go for the 60/2.8...
OK here goes. If you don't already have it, you don't really need it. So what if it's one of the best lenses ever made. In any system. There's other long telephoto options that are, you know, kind of good enough. So, um... don't buy it...
Noise reduction is a black frame subtraction that makes a second shutter closed exposure and is applied to the raw file. Noise filter is what's applied during conversion to jpeg.
The camera always makes a jpeg based on your in camera settings. If you're shooting raw the jpeg is used as the...
In the first shot the target and the child's hand are both in focus. So focus and depth of field are fine. The face, and most of his body, are blurred from motion not mis-focus.
Only a faster shutter shutter speed will correct this. Going from 1/125 to 1/250 is probably not enough so simply...
It sounds like you want both lenses but don't really need either one or there would be no question. So my suggestion is flip a coin.
Or since you can afford either one now, buy the more expensive one. It will be easier to save up for the other one.
One last suggestion is to wait and buy...
With live boost on the image in the viewfinder is at a constant brightness. It doesn't change with changes in exposure.
With it turned off you see under and overexposure as it will appear in the final image.
To me the answer is that a lens must be judged by edited images. There's really no unedited image to see. If an image comes straight out of the camera as a jpeg, which set of settings is "natural". If it's a raw image which raw converter do you use to get an unedited image. They all do some...
The standard was created with room for brand differentiation. It would be nice for us if there was 100% compatibility across all u43 gear but Olympus wants to sell theirs just as Panasonic want to sell theirs.
Everyone uses the USB standard but you don't buy a chrome book to run photoshop.
Yes, that is exposure bracketing. The aperture, shutter speed or ISO is changed to bracket the exposure. That's all we used to have.
Aperture bracketing alters the aperture for depth of field, focus bracketing alters the focus, WB bracketing alters the white balance, ISO bracketing alters the...
The screen shot of the G85 manual shows aperture bracketing works in both Aperture Priority and Manual modes. I would expect automatically changing the aperture in Aperture Priority mode to hold the exposure constant.
That would be exposure bracketing by changing the aperture and keeping the same exposure.
Aperture bracketing in this conversation should be called depth of field bracketing. That's what the op is looking for.
A fourth option, which is my favorite, is a second body. Considering the cost and weight of the zooms you're looking at, a used body would be cheaper and possibly lighter.
One body with the 12 and one with the 75 and a couple of less used lenses in the bottom of the bag.
Yes. You can get around that by setting up back button focus. Set the AE/AF button to auto focus and take AF off the shutter release. Then the shutter release only locks auto exposure (if you're in auto).
Most of the cheap adapters will focus past infinity and so mess up the close focusing distance.
Panasonic makes a Leica M adapter which is accurate. There's also one you can get from Steve Gandy, the Voightlander distributor. Add an LTM to M adapter and you should be good.
It seems a lot easier to just make sure my camera is supported and use the original raw file.
I stay pretty far from the cutting edge of new camera releases so have never had a problem with support.