Hi, my name is Sergei Yurin, I am wedding photographer from Moscow, Russia.
I have a friend here in the community who's been asking me to join for a couple of months now. You might know him as LivingLoud.
I used Canon 5D Mark II and other canons + several L lenses for about seven years. January 1 2013 I decided to replace my Canon gear with Olympus OMD E-M5 with lenses listed in my signature. I can say that I was very impressed with the result from this little Oly camera
Now I want to share with community some of my photos from my weddings. At the moment shutter count on my OMD E-M5 shows 100K shutter actuations, it was heavily used, I've shot 60 weddings with Oly during year 2013. Also I bought E-P5 because I like how it looks like and how it works, IMO it's one of the most beautiful Oly cameras
UPD: if you interested then check all the pages of this topic, I'll share more pictures there
And now, several photos made by me with m43
1. E-P5 + 60/2.8 macro
2. E-P5 + 9-18/4-5.6
3. E-M5 + 9-18/4-5.6
4. E-M5 + 45/1.8
5. E-P5 + 75/1.8 (my lucky combo!!!)
6. E-P5 + 75/1.8
7. E-M5 + 75/1.8
8. E-M5 + 9-18/4-5.6
9. E-P5 + 9-18/4-5.6
10. E-P5 + 75/1.8
11. E-P5 + 9-18/4-5.6
12. E-P5 + 9-18/4-5.6
13. E-P5 + 75/1.8
14. E-P5 + 9-18
15. E-P5 + 75/1.8
16. E-P5 +75/1.8
17. E-P5 + 75/1.8
maybe one of my photos will promote somebody to switch to m43, that's would be cool
comments, questions etc are welcome
p.s. sorry for my english
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I'm just back from a spectacular roundtrip in Namibia. I was in a small group of photo enthusiasts and we had a lot of fun, Namibia is a photographic paradise!
Unfortunately I had not enough time to visit the Etosha Park, so it was mainly a landscape safari.
These are some of my favorite shots. Hope you enjoy
Exif are intact.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/127405291@N05/14967862077" title="P8170253 by Paul D', on Flickr"> "800" height="600" alt="P8170253"></a>
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Hello friends, this is something I've been meaning to do for a while. Unfortunately I came down with a nasty case of the flu over the holidays and that set me back a bit. I'm back in action and sitting around being sick did give me time to think this subject over. lol.
I started with Micro Four Thirds three years ago; got it as a fun, do everything camera. My photography has really grown over the years and the system itself has grown quite rapidly as well. In this past year I have gotten more serious with my work and most of that is portrait work. I love sharing my photography on this forum and seeing other people's stuff as well. However I have such a huge volume of photos I feel doing an individual thread might be more ideal. I will also use this opportunity to share some of my thoughts on portraiture and the Micro Four Thirds system.
A few things first though. Although I will be showcasing what m4/3 can do, I don't want this to come off as some sort of m4/3 defense thread. It is not the perfect system by any means but it's strengths and capabilities suits my needs and I feel there is a lot of misconception out there that hopefully I can address. One thing is certain, I am never insecure about my equipment. Clients chose me over competitors that shoot Full Frame because of my work, and I think that speak volumes. Now I'm not saying m4/3 is better than FF, facts are facts. Full frame has many advantages over m4/3, but the fact that m4/3 is even being compared to FF at all (and so often!) really shows how capable m4/3 can be! Imagine four cylinder Hondas being compared to V8 Ferraris on a regular basis!
I want to start things off with this portrait of a young actress.
Sparkle in her eyes by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
That was taken with the Olympus 75mm f1.8 on my Panasonic G2 body. Lit by an assistant with reflector. I chose this because I feel this image really epitomizes my ideal portrait style and all the elements of a good portrait in general. Lighting, composition, subject matter, depth of field, processing. All these elements are essential for a good portrait, or a good photograph in general. Often times I find people focus on just one single element and ignore the rest. Depth of field is often the subject of this obsession.
Depth of Field
Whenever I read anything about Micro Four Thirds online, it is without fail, someone will mention DoF equivalent. Every. Single. Time. Often this is mentioned in a way to suggest the depth of field of m4/3 is somehow inadequate. I always wonder why this occurs. Because really, the only reason why someone would want more shallow DoF is for portrait work. I can't think of any other instance in photography where that one single element would be so important to prompt someone to bring it up incessantly. Are all these guys portrait photographers? They don't really sound like it, yet it seems like everyone is obsessed with it.
Well I will share my opinions on depth of field. Fact: Full frame cameras have a shallower depth of field than Micro Four Thirds. Let's just get that out of the way. Everyone should know this by now. Why argue about it? If you value ultra thin depth of field, get full frame, problem solved. I myself love bokeh and depth of field just like everyone else. And DoF IS important in portraiture, which allows a proper separation of your subject from the background. So why am I using m4/3 then? Because in practical use, with the right lenses, I find the DoF perfectly suitable for my style. I do primarily head shots to half body shots. And at those distances most m4/3 lenses will give you plenty of background blur.
Ashley - Museum by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Surrounded by bokeh by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Samantha: Model, Actress by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Laura pink sweater by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Now once you get to full body portraits, that's when you'll notice the big difference in DoF. There are some who really like that ultra separation look in full body portraits, I find this look popular with wedding photography. I'm not a wedding shooter and personally I find this look very unnatural. However if you are really into that look, FF is probably the better choice. My philosophy is, most full body shots become environmental portraits. And seeing some of the surroundings help put the portrait into context. This is a creative choice and honestly, with lenses like the Oly 75 and the upcoming Nocticron, I find they give my full body shots just the right amount of separation without looking unnatural. Of course choosing your backgrounds carefully and composing your frame properly is probably more important. But that applies no matter what camera you are shooting.
Here's a couple of environmental portraits done with the Pana Leica 25mm f1.4. Can the background be blurred more? Of course. Would it make it a better picture? That's up to each individual artist and what they are trying to convey don't you think?
Cobblestone Fashion by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Future by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
More cool chairs! by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Some more full body/ 3/4 body stuff:
Heel clickin good time by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Alicia - Secret Garden by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
36/365 House Hunter by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Lena in the field by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
The sound of music by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Seeing the Light
Now all this talk about depth of field brings me to something I find much more important in portraiture. Lighting. To distill "good portraiture" into a single element of depth of field is completely absurd. Yet like I mentioned earlier, I encounter this attitude constantly online. I see plenty of poorly lit, poorly composed portraits online (on this forum as well), but hey, there is plenty of bokeh right? I enjoy shooting on location in natural light, but I will employ reflectors or flash when needed. Even then I will try to make it look as natural as possible. I have developed a back lit portrait style over the years, it's difficult to pull off but I love the results I get. Being creative with lighting is definitely something that will set your portrait apart from your standard studio look.
52/365 Contre-jour by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Bubbles! by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Catching fire by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
138/365 Here comes the sun by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Paige - Contre-jour by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
The Olympus 75mm f1.8
I want to bring this lens up for a moment. Olympus did an amazing job with this lens and it really elevated m4/3 to a much more serious level in my opinion. This is a top notch high grade professional level lens and the results speak for itself. With the upcoming release of the Panasonic Leica Nocticron, m4/3 is really becoming a super capable portrait system. Exciting times ahead.
Some Oly 75 shots:
LG by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Amber by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
JDB by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Laura in woods by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Pillar by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Now the Oly 75 is not the only portrait option of course. The Oly 45 is an amazing little lens for a seriously good price. Everyone should have one in their bags really. Then there are adapted lenses. There is a whole world of possibilities with adapted lenses. I love shooting my Minolta primes and the 2x crop factor make them ideal portrait lenses. Even with my modern native glass I still find myself shooting the Minolta MD 50mm f1.4 all the time. There is something special about the rendering and shooting experience that I just love. Yes they are soft wide open, but in some ideal lighting conditions they will render beautiful portraits. Stopped down to f2 they sharpen up nicely. Here are some with my Minolta MD 50mm f1.4.
2nd Edit Amber by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Bokeh Girl by Vincent-F-Tsai, on Flickr
Well guys thanks for staying and allowing me to share my work and thoughts. I don't think I've ever been so wordy! Please feel free to comment if you agree or disagree. Critique on my photos welcome as well! I am still developing my style and any feedback is definitely helpful!
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- Thread: Five Years of Micro Four Thirds
In September of 2009 after experimenting successfully with an LX3/FZ28 combination on a trip instead of taking my Canon APS-C gear I decided I would try out a m43 system as a "do it all small" kit. The G1 had been getting great reviews and the introduction of the 7-14 meant that I wouldn't be missing UWA for my landscapes. So I picked up a G1+14-45 kit (blue because it was the cheapest) and was pretty impressed with first tests around the house. Lucked out on a used 7-14 off of E-bay (they weren't even sold by US retailers yet at that time) and a used 45-200 as well. Gave the kit a first run on a Death Valley trip a month later and found it was just about perfect for my needs.
Well, it is September 2014 now which means I've been shooting m43 for five years now. For the past two I've rarely been able to shoot much landscape, but my gear list has expanded greatly with a slew of primes for shooting our now two year old daughter. When I bought that G1 the forums were filled with complaints about no primes or portrait lenses. These days forum posts are mostly angst about which of the many great primes to get. Times change!
I figured the five year anniversary was worth commemorating some how, so here are ten photos I've shot over the past half decade using m43. Apologies, I'm sure forum regulars may have seen many of these before. Despite the overwhelming focus on kid photos for the past two years I've only included two shots since I know family/kid photos can get tiresome to those not in the family! It was hard culling down to ten, but that already seemed like too many photos for one post. Short description below each one.
From my very first trip with m43, this is shot with the 45-200. That trip had a lot of keepers, but this one is my favorite. Eureka Dunes.
From my next trip to the Death Valley area, this shot in Panamint Valley. It really looked like the sunset twilight hour was going to fizzle, but there were some cracks in the clouds to the west so I waited it out. Some color made it through in the end! This is the 7-14 obviously.
We were very fortunate on our visit to Denali National Park in 2010 that the peak actually did emerge during the couple of days we are there, it tends to stay hidden in clouds for months on end. While there were some periods in which the peak was entirely clear I preferred the look of it almost emerging. Actual peak is marked by the standing lenticular clouds which formed over the top of it. Stitched pano using 45-200.
I spent a few days in Northern AZ in the fall of 2010 and it was generally a poopy trip. The weather was not pleasant and I was just in a bad mood for some reason. As plans changed I ended up doing way more driving than I wanted. But I did find this vantage point around mid-day and decided I wasn't going to find anything nicer and so just took a nap and read to wait for sunset. Predictably bad weather moved through while I was waiting and so it looked like the whole thing was going to be a waste of time. But I could see low on the horizon in the very far west the sky was clear and so there was a hope that despite being cloudy where I was that a thin line of twilight fill would be present on the horizon giving a soft side light that could work - or it could all fizzle. Well, it seemed to work out. Shot with the 14-45. The B&W version is very nice too, but I had to chose just one to post.
Adapted lens fun, this a 500/8 mirror lens. There is a particular kind of lighting you can get in morning or evening twilight if there are cirrus clouds at the horizon in the direction of the sun but clear skies everywhere else. The cirrus clouds lit from below by the rising sun (still below the horizon where you are shooting) produce a broad pink light source along one horizon while the rest of the sky produces a blue fill light. When I see that kind of light may develop I head for locations likely to benefit. In this case the canvas for that light are sand dunes. I wish I could claim I thought of this particular super-telephoto interpretation of dunes, but no I'd seen a similar shot by an excellent photographer a few years earlier. But I wanted to try it with my favorite kind of light, and so here it is.
This shot also shows the effect of pink horizon/blue fill on an otherwise normally monotone subject. This also uses a bit of forced perspective, shot with the 7-14 at 8mm with the camera about 6.5 ft above the ground. The salt cracks in the foreground are much larger than you might expect (I spent awhile hunting for extra large ones). The combination of UWA, high view point and unusually large foreground objects gives a very strong appearance of perspective sucking the eye into the picture and making the salt flats appear even more extensive.
Daughter was on the way when I shot this one, I knew my landscape shooting trips were going to be stopping for awhile but I managed to sneak one more in before life changed. By this point upgraded to GH2 and this is actually shot with the 45/1.8 - was starting to collect primes in preparation for parenthood. Shot this well after sunrise, was back at my truck packing up after having shot my planned morning composition (it was so-so). The layers of mountains and aerial haze was very striking and well complemented by the clouds in the sky. Liked this unexpected composition better than my carefully planned one from earlier in the morning. Shot from the Panamint Range looking east over Death Valley.
I did get one short trip in when our daughter was almost nine months old, but it wasn't a photography trip really. Whirlwind tour of NW Death Valley for my brother and nephew that was more about exploration and hiking than any dedicated time for photography. But we were at Racetrack Playa around sunset and so I did take the time to find a composition. That's the beauty of m43, it comes with you when a bigger system would have been left behind. This one I thought was going to be unimpressive when shooting - didn't think the light was going to work well in post processing. Nonetheless, it would be silly not to shoot so I did with AEB stacks to handle the large DR. Now shooting an E-M5 (what a great camera for shooting kids) and this with the 7-14 of course. This one ended up really shining in post, glad I kept clicking the shutter as the light changed!
Infants are ugly. I'm sorry, they really are. So I've left out the early baby pictures. But by 9 months to a year they get pretty darn photogenic. I've been so happy shooting family with the E-M5 and the m43 primes. This shot on the technical side captures a lot of why. It uses the gorgeous rendering of the 25/1.4. I love the flip LCD on the E-M5 for getting low perspectives easily, this shot holding the camera down into the crib. IBIS allowed this to be shot at ISO800 (exposure is 1/5) in a very dimly lit scene.
Alright, we could have endless shots of the kid. But time to wrap it up. This is the 42.5/1.2 and a fairly recent shot of her (looks like she is going to be a lefty). The story on family photos is the system has performed amazingly well. E-M5 and lenses like the 25/1.4, 42.5/1.2 and 75/1.8 work wonders at home. These days the GM1+15/1.7 or 12-32 fit in my pocket when we are out and about. I do a photo book of our daughter through blurb once a year for family members, whom I'd expect to ooh and ah even if there were just cell phone photos in it. But I am told by said family members that visitors who pick up the books off the coffee table don't put them down and are quite struck by the photos. So apparently, despite when I started m43 five years ago and it was a "slow-zooms only" system by this point in time it is doing great in the portrait department too.
If you made it this far, thanks for taking the time to share in my retrospective! Looking forward to five more years with this system.
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- Thread: Christmas Eve in Yosemite
Two days before Christmas, it rained so hard in the Northern California which meant that there will be snow for sure un the Eastern Sierra or Yosemite National Park....so with a few photographers friends of mine, we decided to take a day trip. We got there around before sunrise, we were surprised to see snow covered the Valley floor from Tunnel view...however the burn colors were not there so we rushed to the meadow where we can get the El Capitan reflection on Merced River.
My IG in case you are interested: @naminou
El Cap over Merced River by Nam Ing, on Flickr
Three Brothers Reflections by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 Then we moved to the small chapel, perfect image for Christmas
Yosemite Chapel by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 Across the river stands Yosemite Falls
Yosemite Falls by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 Off the main road, I was surprised to see this
Into the Wood by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 On one side of Sentinel Bride
Half Dome Reflection by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 the other side
Reflection from Sentinel Bridge by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 In the Meadow
Lone Tree Snow Covered by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 Another Half Dome reflection
Snow Balls with Half Dome by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 Waiting for sunset...but the fog and snow came and ruined it
Tunnel View by Nam Ing, on Flickr
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- Thread: Essence of Indonesia
A few months ago I've been in Bali and Java, these are some of my favorite shots.
All pictures taken with OM-D E-M1 and Olympus lenses, hope you enjoy
You can also find some different shots on my instagram page, I hope to update it regularly in the coming weeks.
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A How-To Guide to using Adapted Lenses on Micro Four Thirds Cameras
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/55915417@N08/5519181755/" title="Canon500D-IMG_3418-PPR Olympus Pen E-P1 Micro Four Thirds 4/3 - Camera Porn by Lucky.penguin, on Flickr"> "640" height="426" border="0" alt="Canon500D-IMG_3418-PPR Olympus Pen E-P1 Micro Four Thirds 4/3 - Camera Porn"></a>
Olympus Pen E-P1 + Olympus OM Zuiko 50mm f1.4
This is a basic guide on how to adapt non-native lenses to Micro Four Thirds camera bodies. It is intended to answer some of the most commonly asked questions on the forum relating to the use of adapted lenses.
1) Why use adapted lenses?
Why not? This question is probably outside the scope of this thread, which was created based on the assumption that you are interested in trying adapted lenses on your Micro Four Thirds camera. If I was to provide one reason for adapting lenses it is to be able to shoot using classic lenses with all the convenience of a modern digital camera body.
2) What adapted lenses to use?
I'm not going to go into brands here - everyone tends to have their own favourites. If you're looking for some ideas you can try here: Adapted Lens Sample Image Archive
The important things to look for in selecting what lenses to use is that, a) they will physically fit on a Micro Four Thirds camera, b) they produce a sufficiently large image circle, and c) there exists a commercially available adapter for that type of lens.
Essentially any lens from an older full-frame or half-frame SLR, Rangefinder, or (only just!) 16mm Cine camera is fair game, as long as it meets criteria c) above.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/55915417@N08/5243297171/" title="IMG_5943 Canon nFD 24mm f2.8 by Lucky.penguin, on Flickr">https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5050/5243297171_d356309ec6_z_d.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_5943 Canon nFD 24mm f2.8" /></a>
Canon new FD 24mm f2.8
[B]3) Can you use modern electronically controlled lenses?[/B]
Yes, but because the adapters are a physical mount only you will lose any electronically controlled functions such as autofocus, lens-based image stabilisation, and often aperture control as well. Using the example of Canon EF and EFS lenses, you will only be able to shoot with them at their largest aperture, which negates the usefulness of using these otherwise excellent lenses. There is a method to override the aperture setting and get it to stay stopped-down when not mounted on the camera, but it involves using a Canon DSLR body. This begs the question, why not just leave it on the Canon in the first place? So the answer to this question is definitely yes, but is it practical? I'll leave that for you to decide.
[ATTACH=full]164968[/ATTACH]"640" border="0" alt="Photobucket">
Panasonic Lumix GH1 + Canon EFS 17-55mm f2.8
The exceptions are the Olympus Zuiko, Panasonic, Leica, and Sigma Four Thirds SLR lenses. By using the Olympus MMF-1, MMF-2, or Panasonic DMW-MA1 adapters, full electronic control is maintained between the lens and camera body. Bear in mind though that not all Four Thirds lenses are optimised for contrast-detect autofocus so the focus speed may be significantly impaired. Also, the first generation Panasonic bodies (G1, GH1, and GF1) will not autofocus with the non-CDAF optimised Four Thirds lenses.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/55915417@N08/5410379888/" title="IMG_6125 Olympus Pen E-P1 Micro 4/3 by Lucky.penguin, on Flickr">[ATTACH=full]164969[/ATTACH]"640" height="480" border="0" alt="IMG_6125 Olympus Pen E-P1 Micro 4/3"></a>
Olympus Pen E-P1 + Olympus Zuiko 35mm f3.5 Macro
A list of Four Thirds lenses optimised for CDAF can be found [url=http://www.olympus.co.jp/en/support/imsg/digicamera/compati/di004043e.cfm]here[/url]
[B]4) Where to source adapted lenses?[/B]
Try online trading sites like eBay or other regional equivalents, camera shops, pawnbrokers, garage sales, swap meets, even the [URL="https://www.mu-43.com/f17/"]Member Buy, Sell & Trade[/URL] section of this website. Prices and condition of lenses vary wildly. Do your research and decide how much you want to pay.
[B]5) What adapters to use?[/B]
Browse through sites like eBay and Amazon and you will find a large variety of adapters at an equally large range of prices. To an extent you get what you pay for, but you have to decide whether it is worth purchasing a $100+ adapter just to fit what might be a $20 lens. The cheaper adapters generally work fine but there can be the occasional issue of loose fit where it mounts to the lens. See the following link for a guide to fixing loose lens adapter mounts.
It is also common for the cheaper adapters to be built deliberately short to ensure infinity focus. This leads to the rather odd phenomenon of the lens focusing "beyond inifinity" at the longest focus distance. This is not a major issue, but something you need to adjust for and be aware of. The more expensive adapters should have tighter manufacturing tolerances and not display the same issue.
It is possible to use two "stacked adapters" if you don't have a single Micro Four Thirds adapter. See examples below;
[ATTACH=full]164970[/ATTACH]"640" border="0" alt="Photobucket">
Olympus MMF-2 adapter + 4/3-OM adapter
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/55915417@N08/5392919466/" title="IMG_6098 Olympus Pen E-P1 Micro 4/3 Legacy Lens by Lucky.penguin, on Flickr">[ATTACH=full]164971[/ATTACH]"640" border="0" alt="IMG_6098 Olympus Pen E-P1 Micro 4/3 Legacy Lens" /></a>
Exploded view of a stacked MMF-1 + 4/3-OM adapter
[B]6) Do I need an adapter for each lens?[/B]
No, not if all your lens share the same mount, but if it makes it easier for you then by all means go for it. This has the added benefit of not wearing out the mount between the lens and adapter, which may cause the mount to loosen up on the cheaper adapters.
[ATTACH=full]164972[/ATTACH]"640" border="0" alt="Photobucket">
m4/3-Canon FD adapter + Canon new FD 35mm f2
[B]7) What to do when the adapter arrives?[/B]
Check for any loose screws or any metal burrs that have not been removed in the assembly process. You don't want anything loose coming off and finding it's way inside the camera or lens.
[B]8) Any special tricks with mounting lenses?[/B]
Most adapters are straightfoward bayonet mounts or screw mounts and the lens attaches in the same way as it would if you were mounting it on the original camera. One notable exception is the Canon FD mount. The adapters for Canon FD lenses have a ring with an "open" and a "lock" position. The lens must be mounted and dismounted in the "open" position, but set to "lock" once the lens is attached so that the aperture ring on the lens is engaged.
The aperture open/lock ring is shown in the following image;
[ATTACH=full]164973[/ATTACH]"640" border="0" alt="Photobucket">
m4/3-Canon FD adapter
Of course the camera-side mount of an adapter is physically identical to the native Micro Four Thirds lenses (minus the electrical contacts) and attach to the camera in the same way. The adapter should be just as easy to mount onto the camera as a native lens. Don't risk breaking your expensive camera for the sake of trying to force on a poorly constructed adapter.
[ATTACH=full]164974[/ATTACH]"640" border="0" alt="Photobucket">
Rear camera-side monts of a m4/3-Canon EF adapter and Olympus M Zuiko 17mm f2.8
[B]9) What camera settings?[/B]
Olympus cameras will automatically shoot with adapted lenses. For Panasonic cameras you will need to delve into the menus and set "Shoot w/o lens" to "On". This can be set permanently - there is no real reason to set if back to "Off" when you remove the adapted lens.
[ATTACH=full]164975[/ATTACH]"640" border="0" alt="Photobucket">
Panasonic Lumix GH1 menu
You can shoot with adapted lenses in all available modes, except for the Panasonic "iA" mode (this is true for the G1, GF1, and GH1 at least). In any mode other than 'M' or 'S' the camera will still meter and select the exposure for you. Regardless of mode you will always need to set the aperture value manually on the lens itself (with the exception of Four Thirds lenses which are controlled in the same manner as native Micro Four Thirds lenses).
Olympus cameras are well-suited to using adapted lenses as their image stabilisation (IS) is sensor mounted, however for this to be effective you will need to set the focal length of the adapted lens in the menus. Don't apply any crop factors: if the lens is 24mm then set the IS to 24mm. And what if your adapted lens is a zoom? I don't know exactly. My assumption is that if you set it to the smallest focal length it will be most effective at wide angle but less so at the telephoto setting. Conversely if it is set to the highest value it will over-correct at wide-angle. My only advice is to experiment and use whatever you find works best, or turn the IS off and do it like we used to in the old days
[ATTACH=full]164976[/ATTACH]"640" border="0" alt="Photobucket">
Olympus Pen E-P1 menu
[B]10) Automatic lens functions?[/B]
All manual, baby! Aperture setting and focus is all up to you. The magnified MF assist view available in all Micro 4/3 cameras can be used to assist with critical focusing.
[B]11) Performance issues?[/B]
This is a tricky subject. You are dealing with lenses that might be decades old and in less than perfect condition. They might have been dropped, scratched, have fungus, etc. They were also never designed for digital and won't have the same sophisticated coatings as modern lenses. Even with a lens in perfect condition some common image quality problems are flare and a lack of contrast.
There are a number of issues that may cause these two problems but the easiest solution is to use a lens hood. The original lens hood may not be sufficient as in the case of SLR lenses the hood was designed to work with a film negative twice as big as the Micro Four Thirds sensor. On a Micro Four Thirds camera you can use a larger hood than the original. Screw-in hoods are readily available and can be had quite cheaply. As long as they don't project forward enough to cause vignetting you may be able to use them on multiple lenses which share the same filter thread diameter.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/55915417@N08/5447470317/" title="IMG_3250-PP Olympus Pen E-P1 Micro 4/3 by Lucky.penguin, on Flickr">[ATTACH=full]164977[/ATTACH]"640" height="426" border="0" alt="IMG_3250-PP Olympus Pen E-P1 Micro 4/3" /></a>
Olympus Pen E-P1 + Sirius OM 28mm f2.8 with screw-in lens hood
Some other methods to reduce the quantity of excess light reaching the sensor are to use step-down rings on the front of the lens, devise a baffle over the rear element, or apply a non-reflective coating to the inside of the adapter. These methods range from simple to more advanced so don't attempt anything you don't feel comfortable with. I believe a hood is the best practical solution, if not the most space efficient.
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Canon new FD 50mm f1.4 with 52-37mm step-down ring
When using automatic metering you may find that the exposure is slightly out in either direction, and this is more likely to happen when using smaller apertures. Remember that the lens is operating in stop-down mode such that selecting a smaller aperture is instantly reducing the transimssion of light to the lens and sensor, which may cause metering accuracy to suffer. If your lens has a metering issue like this you can adjust the exposure compensation until the screen image looks correct or to use a histogram overlay for assistance.
Operating with the lens stopped-down may also mean that at smaller apertures and in lower light the LCD screen or viewfinder will struggle display the scene properly and turn into a dark, grainy mess. A way around this is to focus and compose with the aperture wide-open and then stop it down prior to taking the image.
[B]12) What if you're not getting acceptable image quality?[/B]
It could be that over time your lens has developed an "issue". It could be that your lens was never very good to begin with. It could be that you manual focusing technique needs work. Eliminate yourself as the problem first before blaming the lens. Trying using the magnified MF assist view to help, and practise, practise, practise!
Above all, have fun and go and make some great images with your adapted lenses!
[B]13) Are the old lenses any good (aka should I bother trying them)?[/B]
A lot of my reason for using manual lenses is that they provide a far more tactile experience than using a modern, all-singing, all-dancing auto-everything lens. You have to work harder for your shot which makes a good result all the more satisfying. At the end of the day though, if these older lenses weren't capable of taking great images I wouldn't use them. For some example images from my favourite older MF lenses please follow the links below.
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/5220376567/][ATTACH=full]164979[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/6964037231/][ATTACH=full]164980[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/6237113495/][ATTACH=full]164981[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/6120152434/][ATTACH=full]164982[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/5921523245/][ATTACH=full]164983[/ATTACH][/url]
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[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/6143538392/][ATTACH=full]164987[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/6041010382/][ATTACH=full]164988[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/5718066419/][ATTACH=full]164989[/ATTACH][/url]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/5189165639/][ATTACH=full]164990[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/5229255942/][ATTACH=full]164991[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/5921524585/][ATTACH=full]164992[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/5745591403/][ATTACH=full]164993[/ATTACH][/url]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/5171125187/][ATTACH=full]164994[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/5395194311/][ATTACH=full]164995[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/5706790278/][ATTACH=full]164996[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/6754089487/][ATTACH=full]164997[/ATTACH][/url]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/5693167658/][ATTACH=full]164998[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/6651427299/][ATTACH=full]164999[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/6035103174/][ATTACH=full]165000[/ATTACH][/url]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/6815274902/][ATTACH=full]165001[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/6143280891/][ATTACH=full]165002[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/6759486025/][ATTACH=full]165003[/ATTACH][/url]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/6199729799/][ATTACH=full]165004[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/6880106267/][ATTACH=full]165005[/ATTACH][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicprins/5171126799/][ATTACH=full]165006[/ATTACH][/url]
This guide should hopefully have helped to answer some of the most commonly asked questions about how to adapt non-native lenses to Micro Four Thirds cameras. As noted it was not intended to provide an exhaustive list of all the possible lens and adapter combinations available, nor every particular idiosyncrasy that they may exhibit. If you have any helpful advice related to adapting lenses then please feel free to add it to this thread. You may have a favourite brand of adapter, a least favourite brand, or other issues that you've encountered and how you solved them (if it all).
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- Thread: 4 Years with M43
Nearly four years ago I bought into mirrorless with an Olympus OM-D E-M5 and a 12-50mm kit lens.
My primary camera system was a Canon 5D3 with an assortment of giant, heavy lenses. The micro 4/3 system appealed greatly to me to serve as a backup as well as a lightweight travel camera.
I've lurked here plenty but have just joined today. I wanted to post a brief selection of images from my nearly 4 years of shooting with the Olympus. All of these were shot with the E-M5.
Lake Buchanan, Texas. Dec. 2013.
Devil's Den. Big Bend National Park. March 2014.
Lake Fork, Texas. March 2014.
Mesquite Dunes. Death Valley National Park. November 2015.
Palo Duro Canyon State Park, Texas. December 2016
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Firefalls is a nick name given to the Horsetail falls phenomenon that take place during about the last two weeks of February when all conditions are united...good amount of snow in December-January, Warm February so the snow can melt to form the Horsetail falls which is dry most of the time and finally no clouds to obstruct sunset.
This was on my bucket list for a long time but lately California was in a drought so no snow nor water falls...however this year we got tons of snow, if you remembered my previous post post Yosemite National Park in Winter.
Last Saturday with a few friends we went in hope to catch it...Boy we were lucky, all perfect condition.
 A wide view
Horsetail Falls by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 With the water flowing so strong that time to time a mist would form and will fly up and caught this the day before Valentine's Day
Horsetail Falls by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 The next morning we got great sunrise
Valentine's Sunrise by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 Went down to the Valley for this famous view of El Capitan
El Cap from the Meadow by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 Panorama of Yosemite Falls and North Dome...you can see the Upper, Middle and Lower Yosemite Falls all aligned.
Panorama of Yosemite Falls and the Meadow by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 Close up view of the Falls
Yosemite Falls by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 As a treat my Afternoon Sunrise
Afternoon-Sunrise by Nam Ing, on Flickr
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Last month I traveled to Morocco with my wife and some grad school classmates of mine. Through the course of a week, we drove over 1000 miles, touring all around the countryside. We visited the cities of Casablanca, Rabat, Marrakesh, and Essaouira, as well as driving out into the edge of the Sahara desert. It was an incredible trip, and I came away with many, many photos. Keeping my kit light, I brought along my GF1, Olympus 9-18mm, Panasonic 20mm, and Panasonic 45-175mm lenses. With these three, I feel like I can typically cover everything that I would want to shoot when traveling. I've included some of my favorites from the trip below. If you'd like to see the rest of my photos (all 188 of them!), you can take a look at my flickr set here:
The morning after arriving in the Sahara, I woke up early and hiked over a nearby hill to see the sunrise. I set up my GorillaPod and took this "selfie" with the 9-18mm:
Driving out to the desert, we stopped for lunch near an old fortified city called Aït Benhaddou. Taken with the Panasonic 20mm:
In Casablanca, we visited the Hassan II mosque, one of the largest in the world. The architecture was quite stunning in scale and design. This is in a tall atrium leading to the baths in the lower level. Taken with the Olympus 9-18mm:
The spice vendors had impressive displays. Here is one in one of the markets in the city of Essaouira. Taken with the Panasonic 20mm:
In Marrakesh, we visited the Bahia Palace, which had some wonderful woodwork in the ceilings. Taken with the Panasonic 20mm:
Our trip to the Sahara desert wouldn't be complete without a camel ride! Taken with the Panasonic 20mm:
I wanted to try some astrophotography while I was in the desert, so I woke up early to catch the sky after the moon set at 4am. The GF1 gets too noisy after ISO 800, but I was able to combine a few exposures and dark frames using DeepSkyStacker and come up with this image. Taken with the Olympus 9-18mm:
Finally, here is another favorite of mine, which I took during the sunrise in the Sahara. This is a combination of two exposures using luminosity masking to blend the sky and foreground. Taken with the Olympus 9-18mm:
Thanks for looking!
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I spent a month in Ethiopia and about 2 weeks in Sudan. Being by myself (and it being the low season as well, permanently so in Sudan) it was going to be very expensive to get off the beaten path and see the truly spectacular stuff so what you see here is the tip of the iceberg in regards to what these 2 countries have to offer.
First up is Lalibela, these churches were chiselled out of the rock 800 years ago, it is one of many important religious sites in Ethiopia - the people you see in the pictures are pilgrims who have come from all over Ethiopia and the place echoes with chanting in the early morning.
Lalibela 1 by edme!, on Flickr
Lalibela 10 by edme!, on Flickr
Lalibela 6 by edme!, on Flickr
Lalibela 7 by edme!, on Flickr
In this picture you can see clearly how the churches were made:
Lalibela 5 by edme!, on Flickr
Lalibela 3 by edme!, on Flickr
These are from Gonder, they are a few hundred years old and the old seat of the royal family.
Gonder 1 by edme!, on Flickr
Gonder 2 by edme!, on Flickr
Simien Mountains, the most well known attraction in Ethiopia, I did a 7 day trek through the park.
This first photo was actually an accident, I was trying to take a photo with the 14mm like the one below but didn't realise I had the 30mm on until i was half way around the pano, decided to stick with it and I actually like it better.
Simien Mountains by edme!, on Flickr
Simien Pano by edme!, on Flickr
Simien Mountains 9 by edme!, on Flickr
Simien Mountains 1 by edme!, on Flickr
Simien Mountains 20 by edme!, on Flickr
Simien Mountains 19 by edme!, on Flickr
Simien Pano 3 by edme!, on Flickr
Simien Mountains 18 by edme!, on Flickr
Simien Mountains 17 by edme!, on Flickr
Simien Mountains 13 by edme!, on Flickr
Simien Mountains 10 by edme!, on Flickr
Simien Mountains 8 by edme!, on Flickr
Simien Mountains (22) by edme!, on Flickr
Simien Mountains 23 by edme!, on Flickr
This is from a town called Aswan, I took this from a hill just outside of the town.
Aswan Door by edme!, on Flickr
These are from the Omdurman Market in Khartoum
Omdurman Market 1 by edme!, on Flickr
Omdurman Market 2 by edme!, on Flickr
Meroe Pyramids, just outside of Khartoum , the tops are broken off because that's where the treasure was (seriously!).
Meroe Pyramids 1 by edme!, on Flickr
Meroe Pyramids 2 by edme!, on Flickr
Meroe Pyramids 3 by edme!, on Flickr
And finally Suakin Island, once an important port now a pile of ruins.
Suakin Island 1 by edme!, on Flickr
Suakin Island 3 by edme!, on Flickr
Suakin Island 4 by edme!, on Flickr
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Sharing photos taken during my trip to West and Southwest USA in Apr-May 2014.
My itinerary went like this:
San Francisco & Highway 1 – Northern Arizona – Las Vegas – Los Angeles - Anaheim
It’s been almost a year since I bought my first ILC. Before I bought my camera, I was just a “typical tourist” shooting everything in auto mode. Then I decided that I want to take better pictures and that was why I bought E-M5 (after much research). Being practicing and learning to prepare for this trip.
C&C are welcome!
Lens: Oly 12-40mm and Oly 9-18mm.
All shots are 12-40mm otherwise stated.
Haida ND and Hitech soft GND slot filters.
First Light at the Gate
The symbol of SF to start the photos. Also met up with fellow forum member Nam during my visit.
Grateful to the bird for being my model and keeping still.
View attachment 365758
Against All Odds
The Lone Cypress, over 200 years and still going strong!
Sunset at Pigeon Point
View attachment 365761
One of the icons in AZ. Spent 2 days shooting. The 1st day was a disappointment with mediocre sky and sunset. The condition on 2nd day was much better.
Visited 2 beautiful slot canyons. Canyon X and Upper Antelope Canyon.
A selfie at Canyon X
View attachment 365762
Upper Antelope Canyon - One of the most stressful but yet most fulfilling photography experiences I ever had. Would do it again. Maybe next time at the lower canyon.
View attachment 365763
The Grandeur of Color
View attachment 365764 \
You light my way
View attachment 365765
Let there be light in your heart
And illuminates other hearts
View attachment 365766
Nothing can dim the light which shines from within
A quote from Maya Angelou
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View attachment 365768
Monument Valley - Another iconic beauty in AZ.
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Of the Mind
Before the Show
View attachment 365773
As the sun goes down
Part 1 ends here. Will share the rest of the journey in subsequent posts.
Many thanks for viewing!
Sharing pictures from LA and Anaheim :smile::smile:
City of Angels
I See Lights
Spent one day at Disneyland
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- Thread: Yosemite National Park in Winter
Last week I got a chance to go along my son week long field trip in Yosemite. As luck have it, we got great conditions for photos opportunity.
 Here as we got there the weather was great sunny and all, but the clouds started to form...here is the view of the Valley from the famous Tunnel View with El Capitan on the left, Half Dome in the middle and Three Brothers on the right and the snowy Bridal's Vail Falls
Tunnel View before Snow Storm by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 A few days later we got hit by a snow storm, to the Californian standard. While there were some rocks slide and all the road in and out Yosemite were closed, I got the Tunnel View all for myself, almost because there were 2 more photographers there but that is low for this spot standard. Almost the same point of view as the first one
Tunnel View after Snow Storm by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 but it cannot beat the m.Zuiko 7-14mm F2.4 view at 7mm
Tunnel View after Snow Storm by Nam Ing, on Flickr
Yosemite 2016 by Nam Ing, on Flickr
Closer and better view of Half Dome
Yosemite 2016 by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 El Cap from the Valley and Merced river
El Capitan - Yosemite 2016 by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 Yosemite Falls
Yosemite Falls 2016 by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 the Yosemite Chapel
The Chapel - Yosemite 2016 by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 Oak tree in the meadow
Yosemite 2016 by Nam Ing, on Flickr
 Half Dome
Half Dome - Yosemite 2016 by Nam Ing, on Flickr
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Few months ago during the New Year period I spent a week on my own in Japan. My original destination was Singapore but after finding out the air fare is only slightly more to add Japan in, I decided to see the country I've always wanted to. I took my E-PL5 kit along with The Panny 14mm pancake and Rokinon 7.5mm fisheye, having just picked up photography as a hobby. Japan is a nice country with friendly and polite people, incredible cities (especially at night), and amazing (words or photos cannot do justice here) food. I had a great time there. Along the way I picked up the Oly 12mm and 45mm for taking photos at night, the prices are amazing there and I simply couldn't resist! Here are some of my favorite shots, after spending 4 days in Tokyo, 3 in Kyoto, and a night each in Nagoya and Nagasaki. I went around mostly in Shinkansens (bullet train) using a 7 day tourist pass purchased before entering Japan.
First morning in Tokyo I went to the famous Tsukiji fish market, and got to sample some of the freshest seafood from the stalls. Taken with Pana 14mm
Went up the world trade center for some evening and night views of the city. Taken with Oly 45mm
Taken with Rokinon 7.5mm
Taken with Oly 12mm
Yokohama is just nearby and I went there just before sunset. Taken with Oly 12mm
Then up the Landmark Tower with some nice views of the city. Taken with Rokinon 7.5mm
Played with the gentle sepia art filter. Taken with Oly 45mm
Yokohama at night with Rokinon 7.5mm
Cosmo World with Rokinon 7.5mm
Also went to Odaiba at night and saw the beautiful rainbow bridge. Tried a 'bokeh' shot with the Oly 45mm
The cafes in Tokyo are irresistible. This heavenly tasting plate by Patissiere Sadaharu Aoki Paris, taken with Oly 12mm
Walked from my hotel to Kasai Rinkai park opposite Disneyland on New Years Eve, and took some fireworks shots with the Oly 45mm
First sunrise of 2014 over Cinderella castle. It feels like half the city is out to see it, amazing crowd! Taken with Oly 45mm
The bamboo grove in Arashiyama, Kyoto was the place I looked forward to. It was surreal. Taken with Oly 12mm
Kinkakuji temple, Kyoto. Taken with Oly 12mm
At Kinkakuji, this cute little one posed for me! Taken with Oly 45mm
Went to Nagoya for the night illuminations in Nabana no Sato. It was beautiful. Tunnel of Light, taken with Oly 12mm
Happy photo time for everyone, everywhere.. taken with Oly 45mm
Spent the last night in Nagasaki and took this night shot of the city, with Rokinon 7.5mm
- Like x 91
- Thread: My African safari
Hi, i'm just back from my safari in Tanzania, Serengeti and Ngorongoro
7 days with EM5ii 40-150/2.8 + mc14
here some photos
I took 7106 shots in 7 days.
Thirsty Lion, Ngorongoro by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Leopard on a tree by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Breakfast in the savannah, Lion eats Zebra by David Denicolò, on Flickr
mom and kittens by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Full-frame elephant by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Martial eagle by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Grey Crowned Crane by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Baboon family by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Let's dance by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Serval cat crossing road in Serengeti by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Agama agama by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Lions on a Tree by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Scavengers by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Elephants for scale by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Stripes, stripes everywhere by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Mud bath for the big guy by David Denicolò, on Flickr
that look by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Giraffe's tickbirds by David Denicolò, on Flickr
Nubian Woodpecker by David Denicolò, on Flickr
leopard and prey on a tree in Serengeti by David Denicolò, on FlickrLast edited: Mar 23, 2016
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One of our members reported suspicious Buy & Sell activity by a user named Lothe1961
The activity was flagged after it was noted that "Seller wants quick Gift payment and is using a photo that is not his... And while he has a few feedbacks, they are from members who all seemed to join on the same day"
Another member noted "identity not matching up with their paypal account"
I banned Lothe1961's account and deleted all of his posts. The deletion tool notified me that this individual has sent 66 PMs, which is very concerning. Please be warned that this individual is likely a scammer and seems to have also used the following user names:
Hopefully no one has been scammed by this person. This is a good time to review our Tips to Avoid Getting Scammed and as good a time as any to remind all members that buying and selling here is at your own risk. Be careful!
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- Thread: Snowdonia in the winter.
Was lucky to be able to go to Snowdonia for the first time. Absolutely stunning place, could quite happily live there and be in landscape photography heaven. I will have to visit again soon, just a shame its 5 hours away.
Anyway here are some shots from the weekend. While the weather forecast was great, unfortunately Snowdonia must have its own micro climate with the clouds getting "stuck" leading to some dull light. Having said that the scenery was amazing and it was a fantastic weekend.
View of Ogwen and Tryfan. by simon ward, on Flickr
llyn nantlle uchaf by simon ward, on Flickr
Llyn Padarn on fire by simon ward, on Flickr
A little trip to the coast
Llanddwyn Island by simon ward, on Flickr
Llyn Gwynant, Snowdonia by simon ward, on Flickr
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1662/24065150619_7697185bfa_b.jpg[/img]LLyn Ogwen by simon ward, on Flickr
Llyn Idwal, Snowdonia by simon ward, on Flickr
LLyn Ogwen by simon ward, on FlickrLast edited: Jan 18, 2016
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- Thread: M43 Portraiture by LivingLoud
Hello friends! It`s been a while since I`ve joined that community & I must say it`s my favourite place to talk photography in the whole internet at the moment. I`ve met some really interesting people here, got a lot of useful information & spent a lot of time browsing through your really nice photographs. It also kicked me to get myself a Flickr account since everybody got it.) So, as Vin (aka spatulaboy) suggested some time ago, I`ve finally decided to start my own thread to contribute to community something more than just some pictures.
E-M5 & mZD 75/1,8
Well, for those who`s not familiar with me - my name`s Maxim, I live in Moscow, Russia & I`m a photographer. Since portraiture`s my favourite genre, this thread is dedicated to portraits. I do not want to declare myself uber-professional since there are so many guys that are much better than me but I`m doing my best & I hope that this topic will be a good example of what M43 system capable of.
E-M1 & PL 25/1,4
What`s the point?
From now on I`ll post whole sets (5-10 pics) of each shoot in this thread so if you`ll see one of them in Native Lenses Archive you can always come back here for more. :smile: I`ll give brief description of the photoshoot with some gear & lighting details. Comments & questions are welcome!
E-M5 & mZD 75/1,8
I`ve switched to mirrorless last summer & now I shoot with M43 system exclusively. I don`t feel myself limited with M43 gear at all. Of course, FF still have some advanteges over M43 in terms of IQ but I`m happy with the results I`m getting with it. I`ve used zooms a lot back in DSLR times but with m43 I`ve decided to go for some fast primes. I have two camera bodies (E-M5 & E-P5), five prime lenses (Oly 12/2, 17/1,8, 45/1,8, 75/1,8 & Pana 25/1,4) & three RC flashes (two FL-600R`s & FL-50R). My favourite lenses are Pana 25/1,4 & Oly 75/1,8 - I shoot around 40% of my stuff with them. I must admit that eventually I can use any of my lenses for portraiture - I feel no restrictions in focal length for shooting a portrait. I`ve done some fisheye portraits, some wide-angles - so don`t be afraid of trying something new.
E-M5 & mZD 75/1,8
Software I use
Since I`ve got a lot of questions about PP techniques I should also mention the software I use. My main PP tool is Adobe Lightroom 5.3, which is great since it got Olympus camera profiles during last update. I also use PS Elements for retouching & layering/masking and OnOne Perfect Effects 8 for some special FX.
E-M5 & PL 25/1,4
E-P5 & mZD 17/1,8
Well, guys, thanks for your attention. I hope this topic will benefit the community in some way.
If you like my work check out My Website, Flickr & 500px (some NSFW stuff out there).
E-M5 & mZD 75/1,8
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