Olympus 75-300 f/4.8-6.7 Image Thread

[phdezra]

Originally Posted by sam_m

some excellent examples on this thread, These look very very sharp images, At the moment I have the 45-200, and 45-150 is actually very sharp even wide open, but after that it drops a bit with only f8 being its best. How does the 75-300 compare throughout its focal range in terms of sharpness? is there a sweet spot/range on this lens?

Well, you can see a lot of my sample above. From my *non-scientific* view, it becomes a *little* soft above 250mm; however just a little. Most of my examples above are at 300mm (unless otherwise noted). Also, please note these are all HANDHELD. Nevertheless, the lens and E-M5 body get the credit.

I also used the Pana 100-300 and was very very unimpressed. The above shots would have been quite soft = not tack sharp from my quick results. The Olympus glass is worlds better when it comes to photographing people. Just my $0.02.

[sam_m]

Originally Posted by phdezra

Well, you can see a lot of my sample above. From my *non-scientific* view, it becomes a *little* soft above 250mm; however just a little. Most of my examples above are at 300mm (unless otherwise noted). Also, please note these are all HANDHELD. Nevertheless, the lens and E-M5 body get the credit.

I also used the Pana 100-300 and was very very unimpressed. The above shots would have been quite soft = not tack sharp from my quick results. The Olympus glass is worlds better when it comes to photographing people. Just my $0.02.

They are great examples and look very sharp to me. That 100-300 panasonic was on my possible list before I got the the 45-200, as the 300mm range was something I was originaly looking for, and the 75-300 obviously suits the OMD M5 very well. More spending soon it seems

[Maczero]

SOOC JPEG from OM-D at 300mm

Seems sharp.

Andrew

[nueces snapper]

[IMG][/IMG]

[Gusnyc]

Here there is an example of the lens at night. I love how the tele brings all the subjects closer. The fireworks were like a mile and a half away.

[Starred]

Originally Posted by phdezra

I also used the Pana 100-300 and was very very unimpressed. The above shots would have been quite soft = not tack sharp from my quick results. The Olympus glass is worlds better when it comes to photographing people. Just my $0.02.

You must have had a bad copy of the 100-300 then. I have read a lot of both pro- and nonpro-reviews, and 90% conclude there is hardly any difference at all when shooting over 250mm.

[yekimrd]

I've been forever searching for this image thread so forgive me for posting a bunch of images.

I guess this lens doesn't get much love because it's costly in spite of having the same IQ as the panny version. Well, that should change. I just want to put it out there that this lens rocks when coupled with the 5-axis IBIS (which is better than lens IS) on the E-M5.

85mm f/5 1/2000 iso 1600


124mm f/6.3 1/40 iso 1000


156mm f/6.3 1/100 iso 1000


187mm f/6 1/100 iso 1000


270mm f/8 1/15 iso 800


300mm f/6.7 1/60 iso 800


300mm f/6.7 1/100 iso 1000

[m43dex]

I really love the processing on these two photos below ... care to share your secrets...?

Originally Posted by yekimrd

85mm f/5 1/2000 iso 1600



156mm f/6.3 1/100 iso 1000

[m43dex]

While the Olympus 75-300mm f/4.8-6.7 is not a macro lens, it focuses rather close for its size.

Caught this pollen junky today when I got home from work.

246mm


Took this shot by the river earlier ... this guy was on a light post appears agitated with my capture .
256mm

[yekimrd]

Originally Posted by m43dex

I really love the processing on these two photos below ... care to share your secrets...?

Thanks for the compliments. I would be honored to offer some insight. Disclaimer: I’m sort of a relative newbie at postprocessing. I only use LR4. I shoot in RAW with the noise filter off and always use a CPL filter. My standard import sharpening is 70 strength, 1.5 radius and 10 detail (I adjust the detail accordingly based on the type of photo).

If you PM me your e-mail add, I’ll be happy to send presets from the 2 photos. But my summer-y photos (lots of direct sunlight), I tend to bump up the contrast and shadow sliders to 60-80 while also taking down the highlights by roughly an equal amount. Depending on how surreal you want your image to look, adjust your clarity accordingly, the girl on the ride was at 75. Here I also applied a radial blur effect (by decreasing clarity using graduated NDs on top, sides, and bottom).

For feathers (and fur), I bump up the clarity and lighten the shadows a bit to about 20 to bring out the feather textures,

In all my images, if I want to emphasize color, I try to balance my saturation and vibrance, ie if I go up on saturation, I go down a bit on vibrance which helps me avoid any color clipping.

Hope what I said made sense… :p