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Image Processing Software for still image processing and/or cataloguing.

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  #11  
Old January 14th, 2013, 04:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossi46 View Post
Questions about Monitor calibration

As I understand, monitor calibration is to allow users to see color as close as possible to prints.

- Monitor calibration is done using what base? Is there a standard base to calibrate the monitor, and once calibrated, whatever ICC profiles you use will show highly accurate colours?

- Monitor calibration improves colour accuracy, what about accuracy of brightness, shadows and contrast?

- My work will be printed as a hobby with probably low end commercial printers using sRGB convert to profile. The printing shops has no idea about ICC profile.
Monitor calibration will not really give me any benefits in this situation?

- I am using low end Acer V3 Aspire notebook, probably with very limited colour gamut, is it necessary to perform monitor calibration?

- See above questions,
If answer is "no, no point calibrating monitor if I am using low end Acer V3 and I only send in sRGB commercial printers without ICC profile info) -

Is there any quick and easy tips on how I should change my monitor settings so that I can get closer to the print.
Eg. - brightness, contrast, gamma etc...

And when I do my work, should it be in a dark or dimly lit environment?

What about this link from Cambridge in Colour,
Monitor Calibration for Photography

I am referring to "Adjusting brightness and contrast" paragraph, is this useful info?
Mattia's advice is sound. My additions.

Calibration isn't about accuracy. It's about consistancy. We're trying to get consistant output from one device to another within the limitations of any particular device. The question "will my colours be accurate if I calibrate?" is asked. The answer is NO. But the colours should be as close as possible a match from screen to printer if both are accessing good profiles and the OS knows how to translate from one to the other. Your "accuracy" depends on you.

2. Calibrating by eye is nearly impossible although you may fluke it occasionally. The human eye is too easy to fool and your eyeball calibration will be affected by something as simple as the room lights or the paint on the walls. It is possible to eyeball brightness and contrast to an approximation but as modern hardware calibration devices will do this automatically, it's not really neccessary.

3. Any screen will benifit from hardware calibration. Get a colorimeter. It's worth it. Cheaper than any lens you can buy. It's an investment. Don't spend large sums of money on software that can calibrate multiple displays but get a puck that works on wide gamut screens just in case you upgrade.

4. Even average labs have profiles. It's just the staff don't know. They're probably emulating as close to possible the sRGB working space. Calibrating you monitor will help in a couple of ways. Firstly you'll have consistancy which means predictability. Secondly you'll know it's not you when your prints suck.

5. The ICC is the set of standards that form the basis for colour consistancy. ICC profiles try to get you close to that base. For monitors it usually maens a gamma of 2.2 and a brightness of 100 cm2. But some people like 120 and some 90.

6. Working in a dim room can help but you'll need to examine and compare prints in a brighter environment. Your impression of a print is also influenced by the viewing environment, just like screens. Some colorimeters (hardwrare calibration puck) can adjust your screen for changing room conditions. Personally I've never liked that. My eyes seem to adjust well enough. I would recomend not having a window or strong light source behind you though.

I think you're doing a good thing here. It's not an easy thing to get started with. But it's worth it. I think all keen photographers owe it to themselves to get a harware calibrator. A Spyder or a Huey Pro is fine. That's about $150.00. Not a big investment compared to the rest of this hobby/profession of ours.

Calibrating your monitor is the heart of a colour managed workflow. The rest is easy (not!).

Gordon
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  #12  
Old January 14th, 2013, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flash View Post
1. CMYK is of little use for photographers. Even though your inkjet printer uses CMYK inks it's still expecting a RGB file. Converting to CMYK requires some skill and there are people who will do it well. You and I probably wont. So as a photographer you wont likely ever need to work with a CMYK file.

2. My workflow is to softproof if I have a printer profile to work with. If I'm sending to sRGB I'll create a duplicate of the finished aRGB file, convert it to sRGB and make any adjustments (if any) I need to.

Gordon
Sorry to repeat my inquiry again, as i probably did not make it very clear.

If I shoot in Adobe RGB, edit my work in Adobe RGB mode, then convert to profile as sRGB for print.

In the "View -> Proof setup"...should I pick -
- Customize proof conditions -> device to simulate -> sRGB?
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  #13  
Old January 14th, 2013, 09:02 AM
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Flash, Mattia,
thanks a million for the detalied explanations, especially in the monitor calibration, thats going to be next on my shopping list :)
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  #14  
Old January 14th, 2013, 09:12 AM
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Having gone to the trouble of purchasing a good IPS monitor (Dell Ultra 23") So I can check the output from my OMD it would be a bit silly not to calibrate it really. Although most reviews say they are good out of the box.

Most of my none critical shots will displayed on an iPad (with retina) which are supposed to be reasonably calibrated by Apple. (Another reason for calibrating the Dell?)

If I mainly stick to one commercial printer and paper type and work with their ICC profile and soft proof "the really good ones" then hopefully I can manage to look after colour management with going loopy in the process.

Any comments from the experts on this approach?
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  #15  
Old January 14th, 2013, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossi46 View Post
Sorry to repeat my inquiry again, as i probably did not make it very clear.

If I shoot in Adobe RGB, edit my work in Adobe RGB mode, then convert to profile as sRGB for print.

In the "View -> Proof setup"...should I pick -
- Customize proof conditions -> device to simulate -> sRGB?
In this case I don't see softproofing as being neccessary as you're working space on the final file is the same as the space the printer expects. If your monitor is hardware calibrated just converting to sRGB should get you as close as your monitor can without needing to soft proof.

Gordon
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  #16  
Old January 14th, 2013, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WasOM3user View Post
Having gone to the trouble of purchasing a good IPS monitor (Dell Ultra 23") So I can check the output from my OMD it would be a bit silly not to calibrate it really. Although most reviews say they are good out of the box.

Most of my none critical shots will displayed on an iPad (with retina) which are supposed to be reasonably calibrated by Apple. (Another reason for calibrating the Dell?)

If I mainly stick to one commercial printer and paper type and work with their ICC profile and soft proof "the really good ones" then hopefully I can manage to look after colour management with going loopy in the process.

Any comments from the experts on this approach?
That sounds fairly sensible.

Monitors do drift over time so even if the calibration were to ICC standards then you'd still need to redo it monthly or so.

The first time people do hardware calibrate many of them think there's something wrong as the change is quite large and the greys they are used to seem quite oragnge. This is normal. You'll adjust. Remember consistancy, not accuracy.

Don't get too anal about perfection. When I first got into colour management some years agoI fussed and fussed. It took a while to relax a bit and accept that every output device is a tiny bit different (some vastly so). You'll never get a 100% screen to print match as Mattia explained in his earlier post. Ipad screens are excellent for viewing images. One of the best portable displays available but even there you will see small variations. Go with it. Personally I think iPad screens are a tiny bit too hot due to the ultra glossy screens. But they sure give images some extra punch.

I only use a couple of labs for stuff I can't do myself and have the same approach. Keep it simple. After a while you'll be able to visualise the small differences between screen and print intuitively. I'm at the point where I hardly need to softproof at all when printing to my Epson 3880.

Gordon
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  #17  
Old January 14th, 2013, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flash View Post
In this case I don't see softproofing as being neccessary as you're working space on the final file is the same as the space the printer expects. If your monitor is hardware calibrated just converting to sRGB should get you as close as your monitor can without needing to soft proof.

Gordon
Noted Gordon.

I am going to ask a very noob / beginner question here.


In the "View -> Proof setup", I do this
- Customize proof conditions -> device to simulate -> select either sRGB or Adobe RGB

The above selection is called standard view right? Its not softproof view.
If otherwise, appreciate your help to let me know what view settings I should choose in order not to have softproof view. Thanks.
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  #18  
Old January 14th, 2013, 11:15 PM
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What software is this in. I'll have to look it up to be 100%. But I would think so.

Gordon
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  #19  
Old January 15th, 2013, 05:11 PM
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Hi Gordon,

I am using Photoshop CS5
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