Been playing about with my kit and have been surprised just how much difference the hood makes on my 14-45mm Panny.

Anyone recommend hoods for the following and what difference does a petal type make to a solid type.

Panasonic 20mm - 46mm dia
Quarry 28mm f3.5 macro - 55mm dia
Hexanon 28mm f3.5 - 55mm dia
Hexanon 40mm f1.8 - 55mm dia
Hexanon 50mm f1.7 - 55mm dia
Hexanon 135mm f3.2 - 55mm dia

seen lots of cheap 3 way folding ones on the bay that look quite tempting.

Cheers

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Panasonic GF1, Panasonic 20mm f1.7, Panasonic 14-45mm, Hexanon 200mm f3.5, Hexanon 135mm f3.2, Hexanon 50mm f1.7, Hexanon 40mm f1.8, Hexanon 28mm f3.5, Quarry Optics 28mm f2.8 Macro

Using the 14-45 too, what is that big difference you noticed with each hoods? I'm using the petal one.

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Panasonic DMC-GF3
Olympus PEN E-PL5
Panasonic Leica Summilux DG 25mm f/1.4
Lumix G Vario 14-45mm f/3.5-5.6 ASPH/MEGA O.I.S.
Lumix G Vario 45-200mm f/4-5.6 MEGA O.I.S.
Lumix G 14mm f/2.5 ASPH
M.Zuiko Digital 14-42mm f3.5-5.6 II
mecablitz 44 AF-1 digital

The longer the focal length the deeper the hood you can use. The deeper the hood you can use without experiencing vignetting, the better. A zoom lens is limited to the hood which will work for its widest angle, and thus loses hood effectiveness for the longer focal lengths. A petal shaped hood opens up the corners where vignetting starts, allowing you to go a little deeper before you reach that threshold. This is most eFfective for the wider angles, but relies on a bayonet or similar mount which can keep the hood at the right angle (where the openings are in the corners) and can't easily be built for a screw-in hood that uses filter threads.

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Olympus E-3 | Olympus E-PL2 PEN | Olympus E-PM1 PEN | Zuiko ED 50-200mm f/2.8-3.5 SWD | Zuiko 14-54mm f/2.8-3.5 | Vivitar 100mm f/2.8 Macro | Carl Zeiss Sonnar 135mm f/2.8 | Konica Hexanon 50mm f/1.4 | Konica Hexanon 85mm f/1.8 | G.Zuiko 50mm f/1.4 | Zuiko 35mm f/3.5 Macro | Zuiko 25mm f/2.8 | KMZ Jupiter-3 50mm f/1.5 | E.Zuiko 200mm f/4 | Zuiko 75-150mm f/4 | Olympus EC-14 teleconverter | VF-2 and VF-3 Viewfinders | EMA-1 Mic Adapter | Olympus FL-36R and FL-50R speedlights

cyclopsphoto.ca

Particularly for the P20 I would recommend a collapsible rubber hood of the type seen here. This allows you to maintain the thin profile of the lens.

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On the topic of lens hoods, does anyone know if there's any that have a nice secure cap like on the rokinon/samyang fisheye? I love that push/snap cap that goes over the hood (and locks).

You could go with something like this (depending on the lens).

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Thanks. Maybe that will be a good match for the 40-150mm...I find it gets banged around abit due to the length of the barrel and big exposed front element. Hopefully it will be ok for the local length (description says from 70mm).

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Yeah, I guess at the price it's worth a shot. It's hard to tell what angle of view that "70mm" from the description is referring to, since that focal length is markedly different on 4/3 vs. APS-C vs. "full frame" sensor. I wouldn't be shocked if you noticed a small bit of vignetting at 40mm with that hood. If you're concerned about that, you could also consider a shorter hood.

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@ Ned, as my Hex's are all 55mm threads I could buy a couple of different depths, see you they work with each lens then fill in the gaps.

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Panasonic GF1, Panasonic 20mm f1.7, Panasonic 14-45mm, Hexanon 200mm f3.5, Hexanon 135mm f3.2, Hexanon 50mm f1.7, Hexanon 40mm f1.8, Hexanon 28mm f3.5, Quarry Optics 28mm f2.8 Macro

I was assuming they meant 35mm equivalent, but yes it is appropriately vague!

I suppose the flipside of going with the 'normal' hood that would be less likely to vignette is that it is also less likely to block stray light?

I remember seeing in reviews that the 40-150mm wasn't that prone to flaring and the hood wasn't seen as mandatory, but I suppose it can only help.