You are beyond the dynamic range of your camera sensor to expose for details in both the black duck and the highly reflective water plants. You would have the same problem if you were using an UWA lens (it is not a lens problem but an exposure problem).
Had you exposed for the duck, then the rest of the scene, which is brighter than the duck, would have been blown out and w/out details. Had you exposed for the water plants, (which looks as if that is what you did), then the darker elements will become dark shadows again w/out details.
You need to learn exposure, especially manual exposure and what your various exposure possibilities available and the subsequence ramifications of said exposure possibilities. You need to understand how the light meter works, (the meter is merely a guide not a law).
In any case, (as in this one), the only way to defeat blown highlights or shadows w/out details, an image which is beyond the dynamic range of your sensor is to:
1) Shoot multiple and various exposures to be post processed into a single HDR image; or
2) Use artificial lighting (flash and/or reflectors) to bring up the shadow areas into the sensors dynamic range.
There is a third option, choose a compromise exposure somewhere between exposing for the bird and exposing for the water plants and hope to manage/manipulate the image, via post processing, into a nice, award winning photograph. But typically with a compromise solution one gets a compromised result.
PS- There are flash attachments designed specifically for nature photogs. "Better Beamer" is one brand. These are quite large and focus the light for longer telephoto lenses. They work quite well.
An image shot at 800mm (in 35mm) with a fill-in flash.
The flash filled in the shadows and even give me some nice catch lights in the eyes. This was a standard flash without a Better Beamer attachment.