Originally Posted by Dave Jenkins
Somewhere, I read that there is an article about how to set up an OM-D for use. Can anyone supply me a link?
I hope that this helps....
My E-M5 Settings
I use Aperture Priority Mode most of the time. My main camera settings are as shown in the top-down image below, with instructions on how to find and adjust the most useful settings I’ve discovered.
Changing the shutter button settings:
Menu > Custom Menu > A Menu > AEL/AFL > S-Af > Mode 1
Enabling half-shutter-press with image stabilization:
Menu > Custom Menu > C Menu > Half Way Rls With IS: On
Enabling AF/half shutter press while zoomed in:
Menu > Custom Menu > D Menu > LV Close Up Mode: Mode 2
Changing the button settings:
Menu > Custom Menu > B Menu > Button Function
Fn1 = My1
Fn2 = Magnify
Record = MF
Control Pad = Direct Function
Right Control Pad Button = ISO
Down Control Pad Button = Burst Mode / Self Timer
(Left Control Pad Button = Focus Point Select) *Non-adjustable
(Up Control Pad Button = Aperture / Exposure Compensation Adjustment) *Non-adjustable
OK Button = Super Control Panel
Enabling the Super Control Panel:
Menu > Custom Menu > D Menu > Control Settings > P/A/S/M > Live SCP: On / Live Control: Off
Adjusting the auto ISO limits:
Menu > Custom Menu > E Menu > ISO-Auto Set > High Limit: 1600
Note well: I set the high limit to ISO1600 for regular use as I use Auto ISO a lot. I change the high limit when I am shooting in demanding conditions and require a faster shutter speed, otherwise I find that ISO1600 and the great IBIS provide me with enough stabilization to get sharp shots in most cases. If I needed a faster shutter speed, I would set the high limit to ISO3200 or ISO6400.
Turning on IBIS when using burst mode:
Menu > Custom Menu > C Menu > Burst Mode Icon + IS Off: Off
Note well: Set this option to ‘Off’ in order to use the image stabilization when shooting in burst mode (several shots in one go). If you change the setting ‘Burst Mode Icon + IS Off’ to ‘On’, you will not be able to use IBIS when shooting multiple images at once. When I first got the camera I mistook this setting, which led to blurred shots in burst mode because the IBIS was switching itself off.
Adjusting noise reduction and colour cast:
Menu > Custom Menu > G Menu > Noise Reduction: Auto
Note well: This mode will be blanked out if you have selected ‘burst mode’ shooting. Switch to single shot mode before trying to change this function. Noise reduction is used in long exposures to reduce noise caused by the sensor heating up.
Menu > Custom Menu > G Menu > Noise Filter: Low
Note well: This is the noise reduction for Jpeg images. Turn it to ‘Low’ or ‘Off’ to retain more detail.
Menu > Custom Menu > G Menu > WB Auto Keep Warm Color: Off
Changing the image recording mode and IS:
Menu > Shooting Menu 1 > Picture Icon > Still Picture: Large Normal + Raw
Shoot Large Fine Jpegs if you intend to use Jpegs for the majority of your work. I use Raw and shoot Jpegs only as a backup.
Menu > Shooting Menu 2 > Image Stabilizer > IS1
Setting up the bracketing mode:
Menu > Shooting Menu 2 > AE Bracket > 7f 0.7ev
For times when I want to bracket (shoot pictures with exposure compensation automatically applied either side of the default), I use the Function 1 button. Set up your camera first and save your settings under one of the MyModes. Then, change the settings to the ones you will use in bracketing mode (or whatever MyMode you wish to set up) before saving a new set of MyMode settings especially for use when bracketing.
I typically envision myself bracketing while the camera is on a tripod, so I set ISO 200, IS Off, 9fps shooting mode and shoot 7 frames at +/-0.7ev. This gives me 7 shots: 0 (normal exposure), as well as +0.7, +1.3, +2.1ev and -0.7, -1.3 and -2.1ev. Best of all, doing this in the 9fps burst shooting mode (which turns off IBIS and locks focus automatically), this is all done in an instant (well, less than a second, when there is enough light)! Perfect for creating HDR images later in Lightroom 4. It would have been nice of Olympus to offer 7f at +/-1ev to bracket the entire exposure compensation range however. I have no idea why they did not do this.
The only caveat with this system is that you have to hold down the function 1 button while you press and hold the shutter for bracketed images. You cannot use the self-timer to shoot all 7 frames at once (although you can use a remote). This is a shame really. I would much prefer to click the function 1 button once to switch temporarily to the bracketing mode and set a 2 second timer to shoot all 7 frames in one go. This way, I would eliminate minor vibrations caused when I press and hold the shutter button and function 1 button together. This should be easy to change in a firmware update. Please, Olympus!
Setting up Live Bulb / Live Time:
Menu > Custom Menu > E Menu > Live Bulb: 0.5sec
Menu > Custom Menu > E Menu > Live Time: 0.5sec
Note well: In order to use either function, you must put the camera in Manual Mode (M) and scroll the main dial until you see the option.
Live Bulb updates the images as long as you keep the shutter button pressed. Probably best used with a remote or cable release. Live Time starts updating one the shutter button has been pressed and finishes when it is pressed once more. These functions are great for fireworks, light painting and other creative effects involving movement!
Let’s start with Olympus E-M5 configured like this:
Shooting Menu 1 > Picture Mode > 4 Muted > Contrast -2, Saturation, -2, gradation: Normal
Custom Menu D > Info Settings > LV-info > Highlight&Shadow:On, Histogram: Off
Custom Menu D > Histogram Settings > Highlight: 245
Custom Menu D > Live View Boost: Off
Custom Menu G > Color Space: Adobe RGB
Auto white balance, if used, must be set to neutral: Custom Menu G > Auto WB, Keep Warm Color: Off