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  #11  
Old July 11th, 2012, 09:30 AM
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I just posted this thread that shows some action shots of kayakers if you wanted to see some more of the E-M5 with action.
Kayakers over the falls

Here's an example:


Taken with E-M5, Panasonic 45-200mm, handheld
My settings:
- 1/1250, f/5.4, ISO 200, 171mm
- IS on, Center-weighted exposure
- AF-S, high speed burst (9fps)

The camera focused darn near instantly and it was fairly easy to get shots like this, if you practice and get familiar with the focus system and shutter lag (very very slight).
Thanked by hkpzee.
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  #12  
Old July 11th, 2012, 09:36 AM
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Oh yeah, I'd be remiss if I didn't post a picture of a dog in action...


Settings: E-M5, Panasonic 45-200mm, handheld
- 1/2000, f/4.5, ISO 800, @78mm
- IS on, ESP metering
- AF-S, high speed burst (9fps)
Thanked by hkpzee.
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  #13  
Old July 11th, 2012, 10:02 AM
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Great kayaking shots, jon595!

FWIW, here is an action shot (maybe a little slow action), but taken with my E-M5 + the slow-focusing Zuiko 50-200SWD fully extended:


I guess the thing that's somewhat remarkable with this shot is that the sailing boat is moving towards the camera...
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  #14  
Old July 11th, 2012, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hkpzee View Post
...
I guess the thing that's somewhat remarkable with this shot is that the sailing boat is moving towards the camera...
So how much of a problem it is for E-M5 to focus a fast moving "incoming" subject? I am heading out this weekend for some water ski shots and I want to try some head-on shots with the E-M5 and the Panny 45-175 lens.
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Old July 11th, 2012, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookme View Post
So how much of a problem it is for E-M5 to focus a fast moving "incoming" subject? I am heading out this weekend for some water ski shots and I want to try some head-on shots with the E-M5 and the Panny 45-175 lens.
Check out this following thread by DonParrot:
A Day at the Races

It has some great tips. To summarize:
1) use the smallest focus box available (14x magnification box);
2) no time to focus and recompose, so move the focus box to the part of the frame you anticipate the target to move to;
3) use C-AF (not C-AF tracking) and burst mode (low burst rate);
4) turn the EVF to high frame rate;
5) if contrast is low, use vivid mode with +1 contrast setting (if you shoot RAW, you should leave it in this mode to maximize your chance of hitting focus);
6) practice!
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  #16  
Old July 11th, 2012, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foster2380 View Post
For me its not about denying reality but learning to work with current limitations. There is a compromise to be made with every camera; often times more than one compromise. My hope is that the guy who shot the pictures of his dogs will answer the comment questions about what his settings were so that the rest of us can learn and hopefully increase our keeper rate with the OMD in similar situations.
Yes. I shot some slow moving soccer last night with the OM-D (youth league). Fortunately, I am much higher on the learning curve reading and implementing Don Parrot's suggestions and suggestions from others.

I haven't looked at the images yet, but the entire experience was not very satisfying ... which is a good thing because before Don Parrot my experience was pure frustration.

The EV blackout and updates while minimized are still distracting and worse actually a cause of missed shots. A dSLR is a superior machine for action photography. That doesn't mean you cannot get exceptional action images out of the OM-D, it means that your hit ratio is lower (lower consistency than a dSLR) and one has to work harder to attain the exceptional image. I'm finding that setting the camera in S-AF mode and use it more like a manual advance SLR, shooting only the peak of action, will deliver the best results (at least for me). I am still trying out different settings.

Gary
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Last edited by GaryAyala; July 11th, 2012 at 10:56 AM.
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