What's Your Travel Setup? - Page 3

crsnydertx · #21 May 19th, 2012, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DHart

Interesting commentary regarding flash. While I have used flash extensively in the studio settings as well as on location commercial shooting, in my personal work and ALL of my outdoor portrait work, I would never choose to use flash. There are some highly skilled shooters who have on location flash down to such a science that it works magnificently. But a great many photographers who use flash produce work which I wouldn't want to show.

For my personal and travel photography I have NEVER used flash and don't ever intend to. If I supplement lighting it is with reflectors and continuous lighting sources.

For the most part, flash is helpful in filling shadows. BUT with the decent dynamic range on G3 and E-M5 sensors, shooting with RAW capture, and the Fill tools in Lightroom... I have no problems with filling shadows in even some of the harshest lighting conditions. I use fill tools in Lightroom a great deal and love it. No need for flash for this shooter.

Bottom line for me is that I have no need for a flash in my travel kit. And I love that because it reduces gear cost, size, weight, time, and complexity.

Thanks, Don! Helps make my inferiority complex re flash a bit more bearable.

I may try a little fill-in flash when contrast is very high; not sure whether the "old" sensors in the E-PM1 and E-P3 are quite up to the DR challenge. When I've used Fill Light slider (Shadows in LR4?) in the past, the amount of noise introduced could be pretty bad. Maybe LR4 has some enhancements that make that more tolerable...? In any event, if I can add just a small amount of fill flash while shooting, I may be able to control the amount of PP adjustment needed. Theoretically..

DHart · #22 May 19th, 2012, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jloden

Gotcha - so what you're saying is get the 7-14mm first, but be prepared to be suckered into the 9-18mm later anyway

I think I picked the wrong hobby for a gear nut like me haha.

I know...having both can easily be viewed as a little "over board."

But the lenses really have different applications. They are not mutually exclusive. And having both, providing the funds can handle it, provides for an even better kit to meet whatever needs you might have at the moment.

I bought the 7-14 well before the 9-18, but ya know... if the superior IQ and the extra POP at 7mm is less important to you than having the slightly longer reach at the other end (as a 1-lens walk around lens), then the 9-18 is a perfectly wonderful UW to have instead of the 7-14.

I don't think I've helped much with these comments, but perhaps you have a little more to think about?

jloden · #23 May 19th, 2012, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DHart

[...]

Bottom line for me is that I have no need for a flash in my travel kit. And I love that because it reduces gear cost, size, weight, time, and complexity. For the shooter who thinks he "needs" a flash, but only because he thinks that's what you're "supposed" to have... I suggest learning more about seeing the available light around you, consider various materials that can be improvised for reflector fill, shoot with RAW capture, and learn the Fill light tool in Lightrom. Personally, I think you can do awesome work in most situations and never use a flash at all.

Not having to use a flash for low light photography was never something I had experienced before getting my GF2. Even though its low light performance is comparatively poor compared to many other cameras, it's been good enough to make the point to me about how much can be done in natural lighting with a quality camera system.

In addition to all the reasons you mentioned Don, the biggest reason I avoid flash for my photography as a hobbyist is that it allows me to get many more of my favorite candid style shots. With the flash, it's nearly impossible to get candid photos, or at least you certainly won't get many of them in a row. For instance, I go camping on a regular basis and I like to take fireside photos and portraits. That would be difficult if not impossible to capture if I was popping flash units off

DHart · #24 May 19th, 2012, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crsnydertx

Thanks, Don! Helps make my inferiority complex re flash a bit more bearable.

I may try a little fill-in flash when contrast is very high; not sure whether the "old" sensors in the E-PM1 and E-P3 are quite up to the DR challenge. When I've used Fill Light slider (Shadows in LR4?) in the past, the amount of noise introduced could be pretty bad. Maybe LR4 has some enhancements that make that more tolerable...? In any event, if I can add just a small amount of fill flash while shooting, I may be able to control the amount of PP adjustment needed. Theoretically..

Chuck... don't get me wrong... there's nothing wrong with using flash, especially for just a touch of fill! I just don't like using it and often don't like the look.

When it comes to portraits, I want a large catch light in my subject's eyes. Small flash units give a pin point catch light, usually at or close to the center of the pupil. Not an attractive look in the eyes in my view. Therefore, for portraits, I will always use a large light source (reflector preferrably, secondarily softbox or umbrella) to give a broad "window light" look for the catchlights in the subjects eyes.

Here's an example. I positioned my subject with soft skylight hitting the left side of her face - visible in the top right sides of her eyes. And used a large reflector to fill the shadow side - visible, especially in her right eye on the lower left. This gives a fairly natural and very flattering look. G3 with Zuiko 45mm f/1.8 lens.

The other great thing about reflector fill vs. flash is the continuous lighting from the reflector will cause your portrait subject's pupils to contract, showing more of the color of the iris. Flash is so instantaneous that the pupils can't contract quickly enough. Of course we're not talking "travel" photography anymore... sorry for the drift.

jloden · #25 May 19th, 2012, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DHart

I know...having both can easily be viewed as a little "over board."

But the lenses really have different applications. They are not mutually exclusive. And having both, providing the funds can handle it, provides for an even better kit to meet whatever needs you might have at the moment.

I bought the 7-14 well before the 9-18, but ya know... if the superior IQ and the extra POP at 7mm is less important to you than having the slightly longer reach at the other end (as a 1-lens walk around lens), then the 9-18 is a perfectly wonderful UW to have instead of the 7-14.

I don't think I've helped much with these comments, but perhaps you have a little more to think about?

Thanks... that helps for sure. Definitely a tough call but I think I'm convinced (for now) that the 7-14mm would be the way to go first. Of course, by the time I have the $ saved up for it I may change my mind again!

crsnydertx · #26 May 19th, 2012, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jloden

Thanks... that helps for sure. Definitely a tough call but I think I'm convinced (for now) that the 7-14mm would be the way to go first. Of course, by the time I have the $ saved up for it I may change my mind again!

Is the 7-14 a stabilized lens? )EDIT: No it is not) I'm guessing that, as a Panny product, it does have stabilization. The 9-18 does not - like all Oly lenses, it's aimed at the IBIS bodies. I believe the 9-18 is considerably more compact than the 7-14.

I just received the 9-18 a couple days ago, and I'm looking forward to learning how to use it effectively. I had a wide angle lens for my Canon APS-C camera (10-22, which is about 8-18 in MFT equivalent terms) that got very little use, so I'm a little leery about committing too much capital to a range that hasn't been in my comfort zone historically. As always, YMMV!

jloden · #27 May 19th, 2012, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crsnydertx

Is the 7-14 a stabilized lens? I'm guessing that, as a Panny product, it does have stabilization. The 9-18 does not - like all Oly lenses, it's aimed at the IBIS bodies. I believe the 9-18 is considerably more compact than the 7-14.

I just received the 9-18 a couple days ago, and I'm looking forward to learning how to use it effectively. I had a wide angle lens for my Canon APS-C camera (10-22, which is about 8-17 in MFT equivalent terms) that got very little use, so I'm a little leery about committing too much capital to a range that hasn't been in my comfort zone historically. As always, YMMV!

No OIS on the 7-14mm actually, so they're even in that department.

oldracer · #28 May 19th, 2012, 11:45 PM

Quote:

what gear I want to take

Forgot a couple of things in my previous post. Traveling now actually, typing on this ridiculous iPad keyboaRd.

Batteries: two batteries, one charger per body. Each evening put the charged spare battery from your pocket into the camera, put battery from camera on charge. Next morning put the freshly charged battery in your pocket. Repeat. If the bodies do not use the same battery, carry a third battery for each. Batteries fail.

Memory cards: Carry four or five (YMMV) per body. Mark cards for first body with numbers, second body with letters. Every night take card from camera and replace with next card in sequence. This spreads your take over many cards. Do not carry cards together in same luggage or bag. This way if a card fails, a bag is lost, or a body gets stolen you do not lose too much. (I once turned 1000 frames of Ektachrome in to the top pro lab in town and their E-4 processor had a bad day. Ruined 80% of the take. Never since have I put all my eggs in one basket. Lesson for the digital age: putting everything on one big memory card is A Bad Idea.)

RT_Panther · #29 May 19th, 2012, 11:54 PM

That's an incredible "blue"' in her eyes. Did your lighting technique some how enhance her eye color

Quote:

Originally Posted by DHart

dixeyk · #30 May 20th, 2012, 12:03 AM

I like to travel light so GH2, P14-45, P20 a couple of 32gb and 16gb SD cards and a coupek spare batteries all stuffed into my Domke F6. I'd probably use the P14-45 the majority of the time. It's a super convenient lens, good quality, built in IS and would probably rarely come off the camera.