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		<title>Micro Four Thirds User Forum</title>
		<link>http://www.mu-43.com/</link>
		<description>Lighting gear and technique</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Thu, 20 Jun 2013 05:17:34 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Micro Four Thirds User Forum</title>
			<link>http://www.mu-43.com/</link>
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		<item>
			<title>FL-LM1/E-PL5 sync speed to 1/320</title>
			<link>http://www.mu-43.com/f106/fl-lm1-e-pl5-sync-speed-1-320-a-48017/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 07:34:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Most PENs are capable of 1/320sec sync if the corresponding contacts are taped or if using 3rd party (e.g. Nikon) flashes.

Is it possible to hack the FL-LM1 to do the 1/320sec sync at least in manual mode?

I am asking, because I'd like to fire a strobe as optical slave in an underwater photo setup. Unfortunately, the UW housing doesn't allow for any 3rd party strobes, that I could use as master.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Most PENs are capable of 1/320sec sync if the corresponding contacts are taped or if using 3rd party (e.g. Nikon) flashes.<br />
<br />
Is it possible to hack the FL-LM1 to do the 1/320sec sync at least in manual mode?<br />
<br />
I am asking, because I'd like to fire a strobe as optical slave in an underwater photo setup. Unfortunately, the UW housing doesn't allow for any 3rd party strobes, that I could use as master.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mu-43.com/f106/">Lighting Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>tamas970</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mu-43.com/f106/fl-lm1-e-pl5-sync-speed-1-320-a-48017/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Noobie flash question</title>
			<link>http://www.mu-43.com/f106/noobie-flash-question-47934/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 20:27:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've been using my E-PL1 and new dedicated flash indoors with great success, bouncing it and diffusing it. Today, for the first time, I took it out to the park to use as a fill flash for some pictures of my daughter. My mom gave me an old outfit from when I was a kid so we decided to get some shots with my daughter wearing the outfit. I was shooting in RAW so I wasn't worried at the time that I thought some of the shots were a little over exposed. I thought that I would be able to get the detail back in the whites quite easily. Is this picture more over exposed than I think? When I put it into OV2 lowering the exposure by 3 stops does nothing to bring detail back into the whites. Is this because the flash was too bright maybe?

Sorry for the blocked out face but I don't post pictures of my daughter.

Image: http://www.mu-43.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Brielle_baseball_034_small.JPG ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I've been using my E-PL1 and new dedicated flash indoors with great success, bouncing it and diffusing it. Today, for the first time, I took it out to the park to use as a fill flash for some pictures of my daughter. My mom gave me an old outfit from when I was a kid so we decided to get some shots with my daughter wearing the outfit. I was shooting in RAW so I wasn't worried at the time that I thought some of the shots were a little over exposed. I thought that I would be able to get the detail back in the whites quite easily. Is this picture more over exposed than I think? When I put it into OV2 lowering the exposure by 3 stops does nothing to bring detail back into the whites. Is this because the flash was too bright maybe?<br />
<br />
Sorry for the blocked out face but I don't post pictures of my daughter.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.mu-43.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Brielle_baseball_034_small.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mu-43.com/f106/">Lighting Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Joltinjess</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mu-43.com/f106/noobie-flash-question-47934/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Swoop and flash</title>
			<link>http://www.mu-43.com/f106/swoop-flash-47731/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 12 Jun 2013 19:37:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Flying Flaming Sword (or Dagger)
<a href="http://minus.com/lbcpunHCiCAP91">
<div align=center>
<img src="http://i.minus.com/ibcpunHCiCAP91.jpg" width="800" height="600"
</div></a>

Kids like it anyway.


Swing/swoop the camera with ~1 sec exposure and 2nd curtain flash to freeze makes for goofy effects.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Flying Flaming Sword (or Dagger)<br />
<a href="http://minus.com/lbcpunHCiCAP91"><br />
<div align=center><br />
<img src="http://i.minus.com/ibcpunHCiCAP91.jpg" width="800" height="600"<br />
</div></a><br />
<br />
Kids like it anyway.<br />
<br />
<br />
Swing/swoop the camera with ~1 sec exposure and 2nd curtain flash to freeze makes for goofy effects.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mu-43.com/f106/">Lighting Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>RobWatson</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mu-43.com/f106/swoop-flash-47731/</guid>
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			<title>New BLOG: Lighting and shooting celebs with OMD</title>
			<link>http://www.mu-43.com/f106/new-blog-lighting-shooting-celebs-omd-47578/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 06:08:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey fellow m43ers  :)  I just completed an exhausting blog detailing my experience last weekend shooting a few celebrities at the F a n bo y Expo event in Knoxville, Tennessee.  I used my OMD, and go into my lighting setup for those who are interested in strobist kind of stuff.  

EDIT:  Just click on the "Blog" link on my site to get to the entry, this site has censored the word "f a n b o y" which will prevent the direct link from working since that word is in the title of the blog.  Thanks!

http://www.TomNguyenStudio.com

Here are a few photos:]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hey fellow m43ers  :)  I just completed an exhausting blog detailing my experience last weekend shooting a few celebrities at the F a n bo y Expo event in Knoxville, Tennessee.  I used my OMD, and go into my lighting setup for those who are interested in strobist kind of stuff.  <br />
<br />
EDIT:  Just click on the "Blog" link on my site to get to the entry, this site has censored the word "f a n b o y" which will prevent the direct link from working since that word is in the title of the blog.  Thanks!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.TomNguyenStudio.com" target="_blank">http://www.TomNguyenStudio.com</a><br />
<br />
Here are a few photos:<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mu-43.com/f106/">Lighting Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>noohoggin1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mu-43.com/f106/new-blog-lighting-shooting-celebs-omd-47578/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Food photography-lighting and backdrops?</title>
			<link>http://www.mu-43.com/f106/food-photography-lighting-backdrops-47496/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 08 Jun 2013 17:40:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi folks,

My wife has asked for some assistance taking pictures of her cooking, and we've noticed our kitchen isn't great for it.  Incandescent lighting (though good diffused sunlight by day) but it would be nice to have a bit more control.

I was thinking a simple 2 light source setup should be fine to eliminate shadows, and then maybe find some neutral or textured backgrounds?  Hoping to spend less than 50$.  I also have a Nissin Di466 for flash though I'm not sure if that's a very good option vs constant light sources.  Anyone have any suggestions?

I was thinking maybe I could try my hand at those DIY tent like this How to Make An Inexpensive Light Tent – DIY (http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-make-a-inexpensive-light-tent)
but the downside is that we are in a small apartment so the less odd/big bulky stuff the better!

Thanks. :thumbup:]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi folks,<br />
<br />
My wife has asked for some assistance taking pictures of her cooking, and we've noticed our kitchen isn't great for it.  Incandescent lighting (though good diffused sunlight by day) but it would be nice to have a bit more control.<br />
<br />
I was thinking a simple 2 light source setup should be fine to eliminate shadows, and then maybe find some neutral or textured backgrounds?  Hoping to spend less than 50$.  I also have a Nissin Di466 for flash though I'm not sure if that's a very good option vs constant light sources.  Anyone have any suggestions?<br />
<br />
I was thinking maybe I could try my hand at those DIY tent like this <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-make-a-inexpensive-light-tent" target="_blank">How to Make An Inexpensive Light Tent – DIY</a><br />
but the downside is that we are in a small apartment so the less odd/big bulky stuff the better!<br />
<br />
Thanks. :thumbup:<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mu-43.com/f106/">Lighting Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>phrenic</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mu-43.com/f106/food-photography-lighting-backdrops-47496/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>What should I buy with my next flash?</title>
			<link>http://www.mu-43.com/f106/what-should-i-buy-my-next-flash-47363/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jun 2013 06:24:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Right now I have a yongnuo 560ii with a 33" umbrella set.
I want to buy another flash. What would be better, a 24" speedlight softbox or another umbrella set? Would there be much of a difference?
This is for a studio type environment, portraits (3/4, full body) in a bedroom/basement.
Another option I have is a cheap 110w strobe with 24/36 softbox]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Right now I have a yongnuo 560ii with a 33" umbrella set.<br />
I want to buy another flash. What would be better, a 24" speedlight softbox or another umbrella set? Would there be much of a difference?<br />
This is for a studio type environment, portraits (3/4, full body) in a bedroom/basement.<br />
Another option I have is a cheap 110w strobe with 24/36 softbox<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mu-43.com/f106/">Lighting Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>rhaab</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mu-43.com/f106/what-should-i-buy-my-next-flash-47363/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Flash in standby</title>
			<link>http://www.mu-43.com/f106/flash-standby-47307/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 05 Jun 2013 02:40:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I just got a new dedicated flash. I've only played with it for about 30 shots but can tell already that it would be easier to leave the flash turned on as much as possible rather than wait for it to power up. Does the flash drain much power when it's just sitting there but still turned on? How long do you leave yours turned on?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I just got a new dedicated flash. I've only played with it for about 30 shots but can tell already that it would be easier to leave the flash turned on as much as possible rather than wait for it to power up. Does the flash drain much power when it's just sitting there but still turned on? How long do you leave yours turned on?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mu-43.com/f106/">Lighting Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Joltinjess</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mu-43.com/f106/flash-standby-47307/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA["TTL Pass-through" Radio Triggers -- Will Canon model work for Panasonic TTL?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.mu-43.com/f106/ttl-pass-through-radio-triggers-will-canon-model-work-panasonic-ttl-47302/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 05 Jun 2013 00:19:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm trying to set up a Panasonic-compatible flash on one of my G5s to act as the main TTL flash *and* set off a slaved Yongnuo 460-II as a fill flash (with the level set manually). With my macro subjects, optical slaving is not reliable--fairly often, the slave flash doesn't trigger. So far, trying to trigger the slave via a PC cable isn't working, and it seems to be the fault of my Canon-compatible hot-shoe/PC-port adapter. (I tested the slave flash with a non-TTL hot-shoe/PC adapter, and the flash fires--but of course I don't get TTL on the main flash that way.)

So, for the moment, I'm (reluctantly) considering using a radio trigger. However, I really don't want to get into calculating manual flash exposure. I want the main flash to be TTL.

So far, I haven't found a "TTL pass-through" radio trigger that's specifically for Olympus/Panasonic. Since I've been using a Canon-compatible TTTL flash cable to fire my main flash, I was wondering if a Canon-compatible TTL pass-through radio trigger would correctly the fire my main TTL flash *and* trigger the slave.

Any help would be appreciated.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I'm trying to set up a Panasonic-compatible flash on one of my G5s to act as the main TTL flash *and* set off a slaved Yongnuo 460-II as a fill flash (with the level set manually). With my macro subjects, optical slaving is not reliable--fairly often, the slave flash doesn't trigger. So far, trying to trigger the slave via a PC cable isn't working, and it seems to be the fault of my Canon-compatible hot-shoe/PC-port adapter. (I tested the slave flash with a non-TTL hot-shoe/PC adapter, and the flash fires--but of course I don't get TTL on the main flash that way.)<br />
<br />
So, for the moment, I'm (reluctantly) considering using a radio trigger. However, I really don't want to get into calculating manual flash exposure. I want the main flash to be TTL.<br />
<br />
So far, I haven't found a "TTL pass-through" radio trigger that's specifically for Olympus/Panasonic. Since I've been using a Canon-compatible TTTL flash cable to fire my main flash, I was wondering if a Canon-compatible TTL pass-through radio trigger would correctly the fire my main TTL flash *and* trigger the slave.<br />
<br />
Any help would be appreciated.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mu-43.com/f106/">Lighting Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>scott</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mu-43.com/f106/ttl-pass-through-radio-triggers-will-canon-model-work-panasonic-ttl-47302/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA["Wired" Sync for Slave Flash?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.mu-43.com/f106/wired-sync-slave-flash-47063/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 31 May 2013 04:19:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've added a slave flash to my macro setup, but very often the slave flash won't fire, because it's not getting enough light from the main flash (line-of-sight obstructed, not much reflection from the subject, etc.).

I could go to a radio flash trigger, but it seems like an unnecessary expense and complication, given that I don't need my flashes to more than about two feet apart.

It occurred to me that I could do just fine with a "wired" connection, but I'm not sure if it works the way I think it would. Any help would be appreciated.

Is it really as simple as using a TTL-capable hot-shoe adapter on the main flash that also has a PC-cable port? Then I guess I'd put a generic PC/hot-shoe adapter under the slave flash, and connect the two PC ports. Is that all there is to it?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I've added a slave flash to my macro setup, but very often the slave flash won't fire, because it's not getting enough light from the main flash (line-of-sight obstructed, not much reflection from the subject, etc.).<br />
<br />
I could go to a radio flash trigger, but it seems like an unnecessary expense and complication, given that I don't need my flashes to more than about two feet apart.<br />
<br />
It occurred to me that I could do just fine with a "wired" connection, but I'm not sure if it works the way I think it would. Any help would be appreciated.<br />
<br />
Is it really as simple as using a TTL-capable hot-shoe adapter on the main flash that also has a PC-cable port? Then I guess I'd put a generic PC/hot-shoe adapter under the slave flash, and connect the two PC ports. Is that all there is to it?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mu-43.com/f106/">Lighting Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>scott</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mu-43.com/f106/wired-sync-slave-flash-47063/</guid>
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