Mu-43.com - Micro Four Thirds User Group
For this challenge let's try Long Exposure. You can use whatever method you like. Bulb, Manual, Live time, Live composite, etc. Get creative! Let's show what M43 cameras can do with these features or go just with the old tried and true standard methods.
Rather than set a strict shutter speed limit, let's just say that it should be longer than your typical speed for that subject matter, whether that be a static object a race car or anything in between. Good luck everyone and happy shooting!
In accordance with rule #3, I'd appreciate if you would note the date of your photo. I don't plan to dig through exif data. It's the honor system here. Thanks in advance.
Please post a single image, represents the theme. The deadline to post entries to this challenge will be September 10th at 00:00 [12 AM] GMT (Greenwich Mean Time.)
After that, voting will remain opened through September 11th at 00:00 [12 AM] GMT. Votes will be tallied, then the winner will be announced. The next challenge should be posted by the winner soon after.
- A single "theme" will be provided for each challenge. These can specify a particular subject (e.g. "trees", "vehicles", "animals", "water"), a shooting/post processing method ("black and white", "shot in M-mode (manual)", "blur", "multiple exposure") or it can be more ephemeral ("happy", "orange", "renewal", "symmetry"). Note: since our audience is global, themes that reference a particular season of the year should be avoided.
- Each challenge will run for a period of two weeks. This should give everyone that wishes to participate a chance to get out and exercise his/her vision.
- Since the intent of this challenge is to get people out and shooting, entries should be shot during the time-frame of the challenge (i.e. no searching through back catalogs for images that match the theme.
- Since this is a Micro Four Thirds forum, entries should be shot with a...
Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II Body - Black
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Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II Body - Silver
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Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II Kit with 14-42mm Zuiko Lens - Black
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Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II Kit with 14-42mm Zuiko Lens - Silver
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Olympus ECG-3 External Metal Grip
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"Looking at the Raw files, we were quite (pleasantly) surprised: the E-M10 II appears to have less noise than the E-M5 II, significantly less noise than its predecessor, and even catches up in performance to the Canon Rebel T6S..."
Sure looks that way from their studio comparisons. Wonder what is going on here?
We recently went on vacation to see Arches, Canyonlands, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and Rocky Mountain National Parks. In addition we spent a little time in Denver before flying home. I hate to sound like a fanboy, but mu43 is the perfect system to use for this. I took two bodies, an EM10 and an EPL7, and a bunch of lenses, and they all fit in a single backpack. The image quality is plenty good enough for me. If you're interested in the camera or lens for a given shot, you can click through to flickr.
Canyonlands by Joe Sharrow, on Flickr
Double Arch by Joe Sharrow, on Flickr
Mesas by Joe Sharrow, on Flickr
Mesa Arch by Joe Sharrow, on Flickr
The Trail Less Traveled by Joe Sharrow, on Flickr
Juniper Tree by Joe Sharrow, on Flickr
Balanced Rock by Joe Sharrow, on Flickr...
This is how I do landscape astrophography. There are a thousand ways to skin a cat so take what you want from this post. I'm basing this post off the photo I recently posted which generated a bit of interest on the forum.
New Zealand-Night by Siftu, on Flickr
Ok before even touching the camera you want find an interesting location you want to be shooting at. I do landscape astro and so I try to find something interesting in the foreground and not just a shot of the sky. For this shoot I knew I wanted the lake and mountains as my foreground. The mountains were miles away from my shooting location so I needed a long lens for that part but on the other hand, to capture the milky way without star trails you want the widest possible lens so you can have a longer shutter speed. Knowing I needed two lenses for the shot meant that I needed the final image to be a composite of at least two shots.
There are apps for your phone showing moon rise and set and the direction. I use TPE which I think is available on android and iOS. To get the most details out of the Milky way you don't want a moon out, but for my foreground I did want it out to give a little definition to the mountains. My two shots are now going to be hours apart.
There are also apps showing you where the Milky Way will be visible. For this I use stellarium but there are other apps which do the same thing. During the day, before the shoot, play around with these apps and figure out the best times to be out, you can usually fast forward in time to see where everything will be.
Obviously you also want a cloudless night. This is out of our control but I say it because I have often wanted to out out and shoot the stars to find out there are none. You also have to look out for light pollution from city lights...